Pine Street, as Michigan Avenue was originally known, first thrived in the mid-1800s as an industrial area packed with factories, shipyards and dilapidated shanties. Rebirth came after the Chicago Fire of 1871 brought such total devastation to the city that, in his history of the fire, E.J. Goodspeed said, "No city can equal now the ruins of Chicago, not even Pompeii, much less Paris." The fire left the Chicago Water Tower and Pumping Station, built just two years before the fire, as the only building in the neighborhood still standing.
In 1920, the Michigan Avenue Bridge opened and connected the city's North and South sides. The Wrigley Building was built by the river in 1921 and joined by the Tribune Tower in 1924. On the north end of Michigan Avenue, the Drake Hotel was opened in 1920 and the stretch's first skyscraper, the fourteen-story Palmolive Building (later to be known as the Playboy Building), was opened in 1929. In 1947, real estate developer Arthur Rubloff announced an ambitious plan to develop North Michigan Avenue into "The Magnificent Mile."
The opening of the quarter-mile-high John Hancock Building in 1970 set the stage for Michigan Avenue as we know it today. Water Tower, the city's first vertical shopping mall, with seven stories of shops and restaurants, opened in 1976 and was followed by One Magnificent Mile in 1983; 900 North Michigan in 1989; and Crate & Barrel and Chicago Place's eight stories of specialty shops in 1990. Borders, a flagship Victoria's Secret, and Filene's Basement (opened after a community struggle against discounters) joined the strip a few years ago, while last year saw the opening of a new Tiffany's, Pottery Barn and the world's second largest Banana Republic. Many of the larger stores and malls include restaurants for those experiencing in-store hunger pains. While Chicago Place has your average conglomeration of fast food options on its top floor, Water Tower is home to the world's most innovative food court, foodlife, where you can cruise its world-beat, heart-healthy food stops, racking up a bill for wraps,
make-your-own stir-fry and smoothies on your "f card." Marshall Field's, Nieman Marcus and Bloomingdale's all have their own version of the lunch room your grandmother might have taken you to, as does ritzy Escada. For those who can wrestle a seat away from one of the annoying squatters who set up camp on the second floor, Borders' Espresso CafŽ offers lite bites and soothing hot drinks.
Like its expensive stores, Michigan Avenue and its side streets offer plenty of restaurants that can empty your pockets faster than you can say, "Do you take American Express?" But for those of us who are feeling a little light in the wallet, there are plenty of reasonably-priced eateries that allow you to limit your damage, if you can summon enough willpower to drag yourself completely away from the sale racks for a break.
Surprisingly, the best deal on the street is in the Hancock Building, at the Signature Room on the 95th floor. The $8.95 all-you-can-eat brunch buffet allows you to eat like a king while you enjoy a room with a view.
Good deli sandwiches can be found just east at either Chalfins, which bills itself as a "real" New York-style deli complete with "properly insulting" staff, or at the Service Deli, housed just inside the service entrance of a residential high-rise (go through the back alley and past the dumpsters). For a burger and nostalgia, grab a counter stool at Johnny Rockets. Or, for some casual grill, try Flapjaw's Saloon for a sandwich and a beer. If you're feeling more adventurous, go around the block to Akai Hana for a sushi special or a hefty bowl of steaming udon and a cup of green tea guaranteed to lift the seasonal chill.
If you've got any room left - in either your stomach or your wallet - treat yourself to a bag of buttery caramel corn at the Garrett Popcorn Shop or, if you're up to a real splurge, dig in to a towering sundae at the Ghirardelli Chocolate Shop & Soda Fountain. Walk it all off later as you enjoy the annual Michigan Avenue Festival of Lights - the city flips on the switch this Saturday.
(A. Laban)
- Akai Hana, 848 North State, (312)787-4881
Chalfins, 200 East Chestnut, lower level, (312)943-0034
Flapjaw's Saloon, 122 East Pearson, (312)642-4848
Johnny Rockets, 901 North Rush, (312)337-3900
Garrett Popcorn Shop, 670 North Michigan, (312)944-2630
Ghirardelli Chocolate Shop & Soda Fountain, 830 North Michigan (312)337-9330
Service Deli, 215 East Chestnut, (312)787-4525
Signature Room on the 95th, Hancock Building, 875 North Michigan, (312)787-9596
copyright 1998 New City Communications, Inc.