byA. LaBan
Pilsen may be the most celebrated Hispanic community of late, both by yupsters cheering the onrush of gentrifugal force and those lamenting the air of change in this barrio, but Little Village - or Pueblo Pequeño - also holds many pleasures for the intra-city tourist. The neighborhood, bordered roughly by Western and Kostner, Ogden and the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal, truly offers a taste of Mexico.
Twenty-sixth Street is the main drag. At Albany, a large arch of white stucco and pink and blue tile declares "Bienvenidos a Little Village." The clock on it is missing hands, a good signal that you should take your time when exploring. And 26th, also known as "Calle Mexico," is a wonderful avenue for a weekend stroll.
Street vendors dot the sidewalks, providing a refreshing taste of true urban life that you can't enjoy in many of the city's tonier neighborhoods. Choose from cart offerings like paletas (ice cream on a stick), elotes (corn on the cob) and, of course, Chicago-style hot dogs. You can also get fruit, sno-cones, limeade and what appears to be a tamarind drink. Prices for these snacks are modest, allowing you to indulge at will and savor while you take in the scene.
Not far from the welcoming arch lies one of the best candy stores ever: Dulce Landia (Candy Land). Inside, under a friendly sky of piñatas, an unbelievable selection of treats explodes from the walls. In an era of wackily-packaged sucrose sweets, Dulce Landia holds its own and then some. They've got candy shaped like firecrackers, toy guns, corn on the cob, chickens - why, it shames FAO Schweetz.
The most intriguing aspect of the Dulce Landia wares, though, is the variety of tastes. Many are hot, with milder versions designated for younger children, and others are surprising, like jawbreakers that hide coriander seeds. Some are just plain out there, like a french-fry candy with ketchup and mustard. A few are analogous to classics, like the pack of lumpy red nuts that turn out to be Boston Baked Beans. The level of perfection isn't quite what you expect when buying confectionery at Osco; choose carefully, and discard the one with the torn wrapper or the caramel running all the way down the stick.
In the heat of the day, settle into an extremely comfortable chair at Nuevo Leon, and sample the two very good salsas. Every inch of wall space is covered with beautiful murals, a treat to the eyes after the somewhat littered street. The TV doesn't dominate, so if there's a soccer game going on, you may wonder why everybody's staring. Of course, when you hear "Goooooaaal!" you'll figure it out.
The menu isn't too extensive, but it's solidly executed. Caldo de res, literally "beef soup," is a generous portion of stew; a thin, marbled piece of steak boiled tender and swimming in broth with cabbage, carrots, green pepper, potato and an ear of corn. The tamales are good, though the filling seems a little skimpy. After the meal, you get a complimentary fruit plate, prompting the thought that more restaurants ought to adopt the custom of complimentary aperitivos (appetizers) and postres (dessert). The pace, service and atmosphere enhance the food to provide a memorable experience.
If you're more of the mind to do your own cooking, you can pick out your own chicken at Chicago Live Poultry House, have it killed and dressed, and truly learn the meaning of the term "fresh meat." Or, if fowl - chicken, duck, turkey or fresh eggs - doesn't appeal, conejo (rabbit) sells for about five bucks a pound.
Supermercados abound, too, and if you're in need of chiles, epazote, Goya products or even just fresh tortillas, take some home now to avoid paying more at Dominick's.
At La Justicia, a prosperous-looking restaurant sporting an enormous art glass chandelier, you might simply grab a snack to again duck out of the heat. A free cup of chicken soup is neither here nor there, but cold beer hits the spot better than the so-so air conditioning. An order of guacamole features copious cilantro, a delicious addition. Ensalada mariscos, seafood salad, is available hot or cold, and features chunks of shrimp, octopus, "crab" and fried fish. With lime juice and hot sauce it's OK, but the fake crab, the saltines ringing the plate and the iceberg lettuce do a disservice to the dish. Odd that Mexican cuisine, so full of robust flavors, often blands out when it comes to the veggies.
If Pilsen goes condo and loses its flavor, Little Village may be the last Hispanic stronghold on the SouthWest Side, so enjoy while you can: Neighborhood change may be a natural cycle, but those with the most green often bring the least to the table, culturally speaking.
Dulce Landia, 3300 West 26th, (773)522-3816
Nuevo Leon 3657 West 26th, (773)522-1515
Chicago Live Poultry House, 2601 West 26th, (773)542-9451
La Justicia, 3901 West 26th, (773)522-0041
copyright 1999 New City Communications, Inc.