Bored by the typical catch of the day? Tired of sushi, but looking to beat the heat with a cool aquatic concoction this summer? Try ceviche, a fish dish cold "cooked" in citrus marinade.
Ceviche is best known as a Latin American appetizer, even though cooking fish in citrus juices has been practiced in Asia for centuries. According to Mexican gastronome Don Amando Farge, the word "ceviche" is derived from the verb "cebar," which means "to saturate." Although there's debate about its origins, one story traces ceviche to Peru, where fishermen lost at sea had nothing to sustain themselves but raw fish. With no means to start a fire on their boats, the fishermen resorted to cooking with lemon juice. Others believe ceviche came to Western Mexico when the Spaniards established trade between the New World and the Philippines, home of the dish's rumored Asian roots. Regardless, ceviche is popular throughout the coastal areas of the Southwest, Mexico and South America, and is increasingly finding its way into Chicago's best kitchens.
Ceviche is prepared with raw fish marinated in citrus (usually lime) juice. The acid in the juice "cooks" the fish, firming the flesh and turning it opaque. In traditional ceviche, onions, tomatoes and green peppers are often added to the marinade. When shellfish is used in the dish, it's best blanched briefly before being mixed into the marinade, which saves the seafood from becoming mushy. Bivalves, such as octopus and squid, are often first tossed in oil to prevent discoloration. Pompano, red snapper and sole are the most common bases for ceviche, but Chef John Manion of Mas, who serves a "ceviche of the day," believes anything goes, as long as the fish is fresh. "As long as you are mindful of how the flavors work together, there are no real rules governing ceviche. You can really throw in anything that you have," he says. "The most important factors are that the fish be fresh and that you take care to season the final dish." Some of the more creative combinations Manion has put together at Mas have included shrimp and tilapia ceviche with green and red peppers, and blue marlin and smoked jalapeno-Tequila.
Other chefs around town are also taking creative license with ceviche. At onesixtyblue, Executive Chef Patrick Robertson views his asparagus and Calico Bay scallop ceviche with an emulsion of raisin and caviar as the perfect start a three-course meal. Robertson notes the most important thing to keep in mind when making a ceviche is "the longer it sits in the marinade, the longer it cooks." Cautions Robertson, "If you want to make it ahead, prepare all the ingredients in advance, but don't mix them until about two to three hours before you're going to serve the dish." Meanwhile, at Toque, Chef Mark Chmielewski has taken ceviche back to its rumored Eastern roots. He prepares Arctic char ceviche with mango, avocado, onion, cilantro and lime juice, and wraps the combination in a steamed cabbage leaf to create an appetizer similar to an East-West maki roll.
Mas, 1670 West North, (773)276-8700
onesixtyblue, 160 North Loomis, (312)850-0303
Toque, 816 West Randolph, (312)666-1100
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