Growing up in East Tennessee, the world of Judy Blume books seemed so foreign - and intriguing - to me.
For one thing, they all took place in the Northeast, while I didn't venture father north than Kentucky until I was twelve. They set me straight about basic facts of life my playground pals were already discussing but my mother wasn't. And, perhaps most unreachable to my Southern Baptist self, the characters were Jewish. Although this fact wasn't dwelt upon in books such as "Are You There God? It's Me, Margaret" and "Starring Sally J. Friedman As Herself," I couldn't help but be curious about this culture, heritage and lifestyle. Church on Saturdays? Ugh. Taking Hebrew names? I was pretty happy to be one of the few girls in my class not named Kristy or Jennifer, but it was still an interesting idea. A monumental party for your 13th birthday? Right on!
Even after I worked my way through the entire Blume oeuvre, I was still pretty curious about this aspect. Then, in college, I dated a nice Jewish boy who invited me home for dinners, and suddenly I found out that the cuisine - oh, the noodles! - was nothing but the most satisfying comfort food I had ever sunk my teeth into. (Sshhh - don't tell my grandmother; she would be devastated to know it's not her fried chicken and mashed potatoes.) The boyfriend didn't stick around, but my love of all things that came in an orange Manischewitz box did. And even though I seriously doubt I could ever be so dedicated to anything I would fast for it, the food part of the High Holy Days sounds good to me.
Of course, there's much more to the High Holy Days than just a feast. Rosh Hashanah is the Day of Atonement, a time when thoughts and deeds are recalled for the past annum and best wishes are expressed for the new year. Rosh Hashanah is also the beginning of the Ten Days on Penitence (signified by the blowing of the Shofar, a ram's-horn trumpet), which culminates in Yom Kippur. Widely regarded as the most important holiday in the Jewish year, Yom Kippur is typically observed by even those Jews who don't honor other holidays. And on that holiest of days, in accordance with the Jewish scriptures, five things are forbidden: bathing, wearing leather shoes, body anointment, sexual relations, and eating and drinking. So the High Holy Days are bookended with a feast and a fast.
Sticking with the feast part, Rosh Hashanah is celebrated with a wonderful spread that includes several symbolic foods. Some are specified significant according to Talmudic teachings: gourds, leeks, beets and dates, which symbolize, variously, a heightened observance, the destruction of enemies and - one of the most important things - sweetness. Bowls of honey, often used for dipping apples or pears, pomegranates and figs, are a must on the Rosh Hashanah table, as is the coiled and circular challah bread, symbolizing the annual cycle - round, complete and uninterrupted.
There are several wonderful kosher bakeries in the West Ridge neighborhood, where you can buy round holiday challah. A few: Gitel's Kosher Pastry Shop, 2745 West Devon, (773)262-3701; Tel-Aviv Kosher Bakery, 2944 West Devon, (773)764-8877; and North Shore Kozher Bakery, 2921 West Touhy, (773)262-0600.
Another meaningful favorite is fish, which symbolizes the blessing of many children. The most traditional example of this is gefilte fish, a ground mixture of carp, whitefish and pike, usually served in the form of patties (or a loaf). There isn't really an official recipe - instead, much of it is based on taste and touch, a little of this and a pinch of that. Should your family not have a passed-down-through-the-generations version, though, have no fear.
There are many great cookbooks focusing on Jewish holiday food - and good thing, too, since Chicago's premier kosher restaurant, the Jeweler's Club, is closed for Rosh Hashanah. Perhaps the bible of Jewish cookery, Claudia Roden's "The Book of Jewish Food," contains not only 800 recipes but also a wealth of information on everything from Jewish dietary laws to historical feasts to, of course, menus for every holiday and festival.
Gloria Kauger Greene's "The Jewish Holiday Cookbook: An International Collection of Recipes and Customs," too, is filled with bright historical asides. "Fast & Festive Meals for the Jewish Holidays: Complete Menus, Rituals, and Party-Planning Ideas for Every Holiday of the Year," by Marlene Sorosky, Joanne Neuman and Debbie Shahvar, is especially interesting because of Sorosky's confession that growing up in an Orthodox environment spoiled the holidays for her - her recently discovered enjoyment only makes the book more lively. For the weight watcher in the family, there's "Kosher Light: Your Traditional Jewish Favorites Cooked Healthy," by Zillah Bahar.
The grand dame of Jewish cooking, though, has to be Joan Nathan. Her book "Jewish Cooking in America" is a must-have for Hebrew kitchen bookshelves, and she's written several kid's cookbooks that are actually great for anyone learning the basics. "Jewish Cooking in America" features simple and straight-to-the-point traditional holiday menus, including challah, gefilte fish, challah, a great whitefish salad (perfect for breaking the fast), chicken fricassee and to-die-for kugel - all so easy to make that even a wannabe like me can impress friends in the know.
(Shelly Ridenour)
copyright 1998 New City Communications, Inc.