Pilsen might just be the most vibrantly colorful slice of Chicago, judging by its appeal to all the senses. Radiating out from the constant stream of honking traffic at the intersection of South Ashland and West 18th, the neighborhood blocks are filled with the sounds of native Mexican and second-generation Mexican-American tongues. Originally settled by German and Irish immigrants in the 1860s, the neighborhood got its name when Czechs and Poles arrived in the twenties.
Since just after the middle of the century, Pilsen has been a hub of Hispanic culture. Visual feasts are abundant in everything from the gothic revival architecture of neighborhood churches to the kaleidoscopic murals bursting from sides of buildings to the storefront windows of religious iconography and dollar-buys. Even the nearby 18th Street el stop on the 54/Cermak Blue Line is a sight to behold, boldly decorated with a mural mix of Aztec art and modern graffiti.
And the smells! Don't even think about walking down 18th Street if you're on a diet; the wafting temptations of fresh tortillas, grilled spiced meats and sinus-opening pickled relishes and salsas will be too much for lovers of all things topped with guacamole.
Those intoxicating aromas might just be coming from Restaurante Nuevo Leon, a traditionally festive hulk of a building at 1515 West 18th. It's the kind of place that tends to be fondly described as a neighborhood institution. As the story on the menu explains, the Gutierrez family arrived in Chicago during the 1950s and opened the restaurant in 1962. Today, Nuevo Leon, expanded to three dining rooms, is in the able hands of the family's four sons. Over thirty-plus years, they've come up with an impressively extensive traditional menu that covers everything from tacos, enchiladas (served under a rich and flavorful chocolate mole) and tamales, to menudo (tripe soup), brain and beef tongue dishes. Favorites include the chili relleno de queso o picadillo, milanesa de res (a surprisingly non-greasy, deep-fried beef steak), sesos lampreados (pan-fried brains) and the chef's special: bistec a la mexicana de lomo, a spicy stew of rib eye, tomatoes, jalapenos and onions. Almost any time of day, Restaurante Nuevo Leon (open until midnight during the week, the restaurant expands its hours to 4am on Fridays and 5 on Saturdays) is bustling with activity, as the rushing waitresses, their bright red skirts sashaying, bring on breakfast, lunch and dinner to tables that fill nearly as soon as they empty. If you still have room, top it all off with fruit-topped cheesecake, flan or pandulee (sweet Mexican bread). Or soothe your tongue with a frozen treat from any of the ice cream vendors who wander the street, cooling their heels on a familiar stoop as often as they actually push their carts.
If you're looking to wash down your tamales with a brisk and tangy margarita, a pi–a colada or any of several Mexican beers, try Cuernavaca (1160 West 18th), often said to be the most authentic Mexican restaurant in Pilsen. Not only is the food the real thing, the decor creates an atmosphere that makes you feel like you're in a cozy Mexican hacienda - albeit a hacienda with a healthy display of animal skulls. Cuernavaca is known for their costillas al carbon - barbecued ribs, we gringos call them - and rightfully so; richly spiced and perfectly fall-apart tender, they proudly live up to the clichŽ "mouth-watering." Talk your dining companions into ordering a sizzling platter of fajitas and sneak a few bites.
Down the street, at 1439 West 18th, is CafŽ Jumping Bean, a too-hip coffeehouse that gives the chains a run for their money when it comes to flavor and prices - as for atmosphere, there's no contest. At once urban and cozy, CafŽ Jumping Bean has a laidback vibe that includes the friendly counter staff treating you like the locals who gather at the bar under the Chiapas poster. The decor is eye-poppingly bright, with folk-art decorated tables and flyers for political activist events. With its abundance of sprawling, unpolished lofts and cheap rents, Pilsen has become a popular draw for local artists over the past few years, and Café Jumping Bean has become a regular watering hole for local bohemios. It's a great place for meeting friends for a light lunch, having a romantic after-dinner espresso or just sipping an iced coffee solo. The elevated window seats are ideal for people-watching, and there's always a stack of local papers and magazines (in English and Spanish) nearby.
Before you leave the neighborhood, be sure to stop by one of the panaderias (Nuevo Leon, Laredo, El Paras) that seem to populate almost every block of 18th Street, offering up sugar-dusted confections like galleta, polvoron and huarache cookies, or pina bread. To truly express yourself, grab a marranito - "gingerbread pig" cookie - from the intoxicating shelves of Diana's, 1542 West 18th.
(Shelly Ridenour)
copyright 1998 New City Communications, Inc.