Andersonville, the Edgewater neighborhood between Bryn Mawr and Foster around Clark Street originally settled by Swedish immigrants, has evolved into a melting pot of more recent immigrant groups and yuppies-a melting pot that has increased the diversity of restaurant offerings in the area. Blessed with good housing stock, Andersonville has led Edgewater's resurgence since it hit bottom in the seventies.
Development of Andersonville and the surrounding Edgewater community began in the late-nineteenth century by J. Lewis Cockran, who envisioned a residential enclave for Chicago's elite families, and the neighborhood still boasts numerous landmark houses. Not a single home facade on the north side of West Farragut Avenue, for example, has been altered since the quiet street was developed in 1920.
Andersonville experienced its peak growth between 1890 and 1930. By 1927, more than 125,000 individuals of Swedish descent lived in Chicago. After 1930, however, Swedish immigration slowed, and new, less-prosperous immigrant groups moved into Andersonville.
Stable housing values have anchored the revival of Edgewater's retail businesses, particularly in Andersonville, where small storefronts thrive. A tolerant attitude attracted gay professionals and supported women-owned businesses, like feminist bookstore Women & Children First. All of this helped Andersonville's residential and business base expand.
Andersonville still retains elements of Swedish roots, including The Swedish-American Museum Center, at 5211 North Clark. A bellringer, who used to march up and down Clark Street at 10am every day to signal shopkeepers to sweep their sidewalks, now only performs on holidays. But new shops on Clark may still receive symbolic hand-painted, blue-and-yellow corn brooms as a welcome from the Andersonville Chamber of Commerce.
No matter their heritage, residents still line up along Clark Street to pay homage to the traditional Swedish table. Svea Restaurant and Chicago-institution Ann Sather are known for their Swedish pancakes. And vort limpa bread, pepperkakor and made-to-order marzipan cakes are still hot out of the oven at The Swedish Bakery, the last of its kind in the area.
Opened in 1925, Erickson's Delicatessen is stocked with Scandinavian specialties, including salt or pickled herring, head cheese, potato sausage, lingonberries, Swedish cookies and candies. Sausage, herring and other fresh products are made exclusively for Erickson's from homemade recipes passed down for generations. Wikstrom's Scandinavian American Gourmet Foods further north on Clark also offers a diverse selection of Viking fare. Although the restaurants of Andersonville serve a United Nations smorgasbord of selections, the neighborhood's menu has increasingly reflected the flavors of the Middle East. Numerous storefronts serving hummous, moussaka and kebabs line Clark.
Reza's, a seemingly ever-expanding Persian palace, rules the Mediterranean restaurant scene. No small storefront here, Reza's multi-floor, polished-wood establishment is as big as its menu of Persian delights. But Reza's gets plenty of competition. If you're hooked on a phyllo, you can get stuffed like a grape leaf at Andie's, Cousins or Kan Zaman. Cousins and Kan Zaman, although not expensive, are swankier places, with adventurous pillow seating. Andie's is budget cuisine with some of the best falafel in town. For those who want to enjoy 1,001 nights in the comfort of their own homes, prepared foods and ingredients are found at The Middle Eastern Bakery & Grocery. Longtime Andersonville resident the Dellwood Pickle serves an eclectic menu ranging from sandwiches like the po' boy sliced pot roast to tomato basil ravioli, blackened catfish, and grilled soy salmon. Tomboy, the neighborhood's funky but more upscale eatery, serves global fusion dishes that are both a treat for the eye and the stomach. Order the shredded, phyllo-encrusted "porcupine" shrimp on blueberry-ginger reduction with cilantro melon relish, and make sure you call ahead for a seat.
For an easy weekend's taste of Andersonville, check out the Andersonville Midsummarfest June 13-14. You're Valkommen.
A. LaBan
Andie's Restaurant, 5253 North Clark, (773)784-8616. 11am-11:30pm daily. $/V, MC, Disc.
Ann Sather's, 5207 North Clark, (773)271-6677. Mon-Fri 7am-3:30pm, Sat-Sun 7am-5pm. $/All major credit cards.
Cousins, 4203 North Clark, (773)334-4553. Sun-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sat 11:30am-11pm. $/V, MC.
Dellwood Pickle, 1475 West Balmoral, (773)271-7728. Tu-Thu 4-10pm, Fri-Sat 4-11pm, Sun 9am-9pm. BYOB. $/All major credit cards.
Kan Zaman, 5204 North Clark, (773)506-0191. Mon-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. $$/V, MC, AMEX.
Reza's, 5255 North Clark, (773)561-1898. Daily 11am-midnight. $$/All major credit cards.
Svea Restaurant, 5236 North Clark, (773)275-7738. Daily 7am-4pm. $/No credit cards.
Tomboy, 5402 North Clark, (773)907-0636. Dinner Tu-Sat. Reservations recommended. $$/All major credit cards.
copyright 1998 New City Communications, Inc.