by A. LaBan
Often hailed as the pasta of northern Italy, risotto has been made by Italians since the sixteenth century, when the cooks of Milan invented risotto alla Milanese, the classic dish flavored with onion, saffron, cheese and marrow. Since then, the preparation of this creamy rice dish has become nearly sacred, particularly in the country's three northern regions - Piedmont, Veneto and Lombardy - where risotto has supplanted pasta as the staple of the dinner table.
Grown in the Po River valley in Lombardy, Italy's most fertile agricultural region, the glutinous rice is known for its ability to absorb a great deal of liquid quickly and still remain firm, resulting in the dish's uniquely creamy texture. Risotto is typically made with one of four varieties of this starchy, short-grained rice: bardo (used in desserts), carnaroli (the creamiest), nano (an organic development) and arborio (the most common).
Although technically difficult to prepare and requiring constant diligence, it can be cooked in eighteen to twenty-five minutes. Hot vegetable or chicken stock is stirred into a mixture of rice and chopped onions, which have previously been sautŽed in olive oil or butter. The stock is added one-half to three-quarters of a cup at a time, and the mixture is stirred constantly, until all the liquid is absorbed - then more stock is added. A wooden spoon should be used for stirring, so the kernels don't break as easily. The continual stirring and slow absorption of liquid results in the starch being released gradually, creating a creamy texture with rice that is tender but al dente.
At Campagnola in Evanston, a restaurant specializing in "clean Italian cuisine," the menu's risotto offerings change weekly. Recent highlights include saffron risotto with Maine cockles and chorizo, a play on paella, and risotto with baby green cauliflower and sweet shrimp. Chef Michael Altenberg, who studied at some of Italy's finest restaurants, including the country's only Michelin three-star, notes that risotto is a perfect winter comfort food. "It's a rich, luxurious dish when cooked properly. When I make it during the summer, I have to stick to vegetarian versions prepared with a lot less butter and cheese."
Altenberg also likes the creativity the dish affords. "You're free to have fun with risotto. It's a perfect vehicle to carry any kind of flavor. I've even made a 'five grain' risotto that started with traditional rice, and then incorporated whole grains."
"We have a daily changing risotto at Coco Pazzo that is very much classic Tuscan risotto," explains that establishment's Chef Tony Priolo. "It's all made fresh in the restaurant, and our dishes typically include fava beans, pecorino romano, saffron, asparagus, wild mushrooms or shaved white truffles. We also use carnaroli rice in our risotto, because it has more amylopectin and, therefore, higher starch count. This makes for the creamiest product."
Although there are numerous versions of risotto prepared differently according to tradition, location and season, this classic rice dish is traditionally served as a first course - "primo piatto" - and is typically light on ingredients, focusing on simple combinations of fresh herbs, parmesan cheese, wine and vegetables. In Lombardy, asparagus is stirred in to create the region's signature version, agli asparagi. "Risotto's never really been meant as an entrŽe, because it's too rich," notes Altenberg. "An entrŽe-size plate of risotto would be like eating a huge bowl of buttery mashed potatoes. I typically serve risotto as a first plate or as an accompaniment to a dish like ossobuco."
Other local chefs have updated - some might say Americanized - the dish. "Although it would be considered unorthodox by Italians, we've found that risotto serves as a satisfying main course at lunch or dinner. With the simple addition of a salad or a vegetable and a crusty loaf of bread, risotto becomes an easy-to-prepare and elegant meal," says Chef John Coletta of Caliterra Restaurant, which is due to open in April.
Graziano's Brick Oven Pizza's Chef Steve Smith adds, "It's amazing how experienced people are these days with sophisticated foods, and we prepare our risotto and all our cuisine with that in mind. Our risotto is traditional in that we use only rice in its preparation. At Graziano's, our guests can and do custom order their risotto with their choice of ingredients. Portabello mushrooms are always in demand."
This winter, try some Italian-style comfort food - mushrooms optional. Buon appetito.
Caliterra Restaurant at the Wyndham Hotel, 633 North St. Clair (Opening April 1999)
Campagnola, 815 Chicago Avenue, Evanston, (847)475-6100
Coco Pazzo,, 300 West Hubbard, (312)836-0900
Graziano's Brick Oven Pizza, 5960 West Touhy, (847)647-4096; and 1101 East Dundee, Palatine, (847)705-8074
Heaven on Seven on Rush, 600 North Michigan, (312)280-7774. Live music, prizes, magicians and tarot card readers through February 16.
copyright 1999 New City Communications, Inc.