And even though it doesn't have a football team, the University of Chicago is surrounded by any number of chat-friendly hang-outs that serve the above-mentioned staples of college life. Although the neighborhood that wraps around the eastern side of campus, Hyde Park, doesn't exactly qualify as a college town, the main retail and restaurant blocks - between 53rd and 57th, west to Woodlawn Avenue and east to Hyde Park Boulevard - essentially looks like it could've been lifted from any of the Big Ten or SEC campuses. The weird thing, of course, is that this is the third largest city in the U.S.; so, Hyde Park's non-chain eateries are often infused with an urban eclecticism. But don't worry; you can still get hot coffee, cold beer and warm gossip at any of these - and more often than not, pizza's on the menu.
Don't let the Denny's-esque decor fool you; Mellow Yellow doesn't serve anything like a greasy Scram Slam, instead offering a full menu that features some of the best crepes you'll find, at least on the South Side. Stuffed with various combinations of spinach and asparagus, cheese, mushrooms and meats (chicken, turkey, beef) and topped with rich cream and burgundy sauces, these expectantly rich wraps are also surprisingly filling - to the point of hurt, really, especially if you forsake a healthy green accompaniment for a satisfying and enormous "cup" of French onion soup. Another surprise? The catfish fillets appetizer, a just-the-right size serving of rich, flavorful (but not too fishy) catfish in a spicy, peppered breading, that flakes gently with each bite. And I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that the service can be unbeatable.
Visually, Medici could be any hipster-hangout/pizza joint on any Ivy League campus - years of graffiti covering the walls, unisex bathroom, patio that just begs you to order a pitcher of beer and a menu featuring enormous hamburgers and pizza; but how many others get bar food so right? Both the onion rings and garlic bread are perfectly crunchy on the outside, hot and pillow-spongy in the middle. A Mediterranean pizza packs the right tang, the tomato sweetness complementing the pungency of the feta, black olives and garlic. Only one thing would make it perfectly perfect: pesto.
Caffe Florian basically offers more of the same, though its atmosphere is more coffeehouse continental; in fact, screw Starbucks and spend a lazy Sunday morning here, trying one of the fifty beverages - specialty teas, hot chocolates, sodas and a variety of coffees, including their signature Coffee a la Melior, brewed right at the table. A smattering of Middle Eastern items (involving the usual suspects - hummus and pita) are available, reflecting the surprising number of Middle Eastern-flavored restaurants in the area. The best - and the best known - of which is Cedars of Lebanon, smallish but quite dignified and featuring an extensive and traditional Lebanese menu. Try the Fatet Makdoos, eggplant sautŽed with peppers, onions and tomatoes, topped with deliciously cool yogurt and pine nuts. And don't miss their take on french fries - wide, round slices cut paper-thin and fried to a golden crisp, then generously sprinkled with paprika.
Lately, a couple of newcomers have brought a hint of post-grad sophistication to the neighborhood. Jalapeno's Cafe features a true Mexican menu, covering the old standbys as well as innovative specials and dishes like Paella de Cancun, a flavorful gumbo of shrimp, salmon, chicken and clams. Go for a weekend brunch, starting with melt-in-your-mouth cinnamon-raisin muffins and ending at the impressive dessert spread - stopping off, of course, for hashbrowns, fruit and eggs divan.
On the other hand, if you just want to skip the crowds and eat at home (or in the car or in the park), head to Ribs 'n' Bibs - don't worry, you'll know it by the smell. The closest thing I've found to cheap Southern barbecue, this take-out/delivery-only joint will barbecue just about anything; whatever you do, though, don't miss the barbecue beef sandwich, a thick roll of tender brisket smothered (and I mean smothered) in a tomato-based sauce - the only kind, as far as I'm concerned.
- Mellow Yellow, 1508 East 53rd, (773)667-2000
Medici, 1327 East 57th, (773)667-7394
Caffe Florian,, 1450 East 57th, (773)752-4100
Cedars of Lebanon, 1618 East 53rd, (773)324-6227
Jalapeno's Cafe, 5500 South Hyde Park Boulevard, (773)643-5500
Ribs 'n' Bibs, 5300 South Dorchester, (773)493-0400
(Shelley Ridenour)
copyright 1999 New City Communications, Inc.