In fact, with the blasé porridge ladled out at so many restaurants, it's no wonder many of us eschew soup entirely. It may also partly be the result of breeding, for in our formative years we're most likely to ingest soup during times of illness. To this day, we think of soup readily when we are sick, reluctantly when we are not; it is the bland bedside companion. But there is ferment in the broth of time. As part of the better-for-you food movement and the public's growing acceptance of more pungent food and spice combinations, a terrific variety of soup flavors has been appearing on grocery shelves and restaurant menus, and even the lowliest ramen is in on the act. And, in perhaps the clearest sign of the food's simmering appeal, soup-only restaurants have appeared on the scene. Yes, you no longer need to be a model, astronaut or invalid to appreciate the benefits of a liquid diet. And in January, after weeks of gluttonous holiday feasting, what better way to restore balance to your diet (and possibly your waistline)? Not coincidentally, it's National Soup Month.
Zoop, in the South Loop, has been serving up nothing but soup five days a week since last June. You can choose from at least a dozen soups daily, and if you're having a hard time choosing, they offer samplers that allow you to try two or three flavors. For the eating-challenged, Zoop's vegetarian, non-dairy and low fat offerings are clearly labeled; most soups fit one category, and some fit all.
Still, no flavor is sacrificed, as these soups are, for the most part, robust and flavorful. Cream of wild mushroom is buttery and decadent, with a few sizable chunks of fungus. Chicken noodle is also strong, with good broth and noodles that aren't too soggy. Less successful are a bland white chicken chili and a carrot, ginger and orange soup that could have used more ginger to keep the carrot flavor from overwhelming. With each order you get a small but dense seven-grain baguette and a spread made of artichoke heart, white bean and herbs. The bread is too dense, although the flavor is good, and the spread (which has a hummus-like consistency) doesn't bring much to the party. Butter would be just fine, although it might seem a bit déclassé.
Zoop delivers, but eating in is kind of fun, too. It's noisy, but cheek-to-jowl seating on high stools at counters and a communal table provide a great chance to eavesdrop on your neighbor's cigar-collecting habits.
On the North Side, at Soupbox, they've been doing the same thing for the past few years. In a casual, homey Broadway storefront, patrons face twelve cauldrons of soup and make their selections. Flavors range from the homey to the moderately adventurous, but the strengths lie somewhere in between. The chicken noodle, which should be a cornerstone soup, isn't very good, with a thick, gelatinous broth full of messy, little noodles. The hearty vegetable is better, but still no better than a quality canned soup. White cheddar and vegetable, however, is very nice, velvety, with just enough cheese. Lobster bisque is as good as you could ask from a place that serves it in Styrofoam. The bread - light, with a thin crust - is better suited to soup than Zoop's version. Soupbox doesn't sell samplers, but small cups are cheap, so try a couple of portions.
In summer, Soupbox becomes Icebox and serves warm-weather treats, so get your soup while you can.
A couple more soup tips: R.J. Grunt's features two hot soups as part of its forty-item salad bar. Every day, the price for a cup of soup is determined by the lakefront temperature at 11 am. Ten degrees? Ten cents. Their most popular flavors are roasted butternut squash, chicken and wild rice, and tomato cream cheese, none of them light but all good winter fare. With recent weather what it's been, now's your chance to nab a cheap warm-up. Don't get excited by subzero temperatures, though; below zero, they won't pay you to eat the soup, they'll just give it to you free.
Earth, which serves organic and vegetarian food (they also serve meats, though they're free-range and chemical-free), is offering a different soup each day for the month of January. Made without cream or meat stock, they're purees or based with vegetable stock and should appeal to those who want the healthiest of the healthy experience.
- Zoop, 212 West Van Buren, (312)957-1000
Soupbox, 2943 North Broadway, (773)935-9800
R.J. Grunt's,, 2056 North Lincoln Park West, (773)929-5363
Earth, 738 North Wells, (312)335-5475
(Keir Graff)
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