by Elaine Richardson
God I love pie.
But for the encroaching holidays, it's unlikely that anyone would be thinking about the wonder of pie. That most American of desserts has lost stature in recent years, relegated to family gatherings where it is frequently consumed following the ingestion of mass quantities, thus diminishing any possibility for appreciation.
And we've become so trendy that many restaurants have eschewed it for the likes of flourless cakes, mousses and tortes. Or perhaps it's just that something as simple and delightful as pie is just too difficult to make correctly. After all, you can score pie in any diner, but good pie is hard to find. More often than not a tasty filling is obscured by a crust hard enough to necessitate a jackhammer -- or at least a knife; or, a truly beautiful crust is crammed with filling so bland as to be a waste of time. Luckily, if you know where to find it, the Chicago area boasts enough quality pie to keep you away from the kitchen for the holidays -- and enough truly superb pie to make you a convert for life.
For the very best in fruit pies -- from lemon (usually on Wednesdays) and cherry to Key lime and mincemeat -- take a trip to the suburbs and the Forest Park storefront of Kay's Bakery and Coffee Shop. Particularly notable is the basic apple pie; sweet, yet tart, with just the right hint of cinnamon. Kay's follows a traditional recipe, using a full coverage top crust, baked to golden brown without being too hard. Kay's Dutch apple -- a pie many try, with rare success, to get right -- is also exceptional. The top crust of the basic apple is foregone in favor of a crumbly, streusel topping that many bakers pile on to excess. Kay's uses just enough for coverage, giving it a slightly sweeter flavor than the regular apple.
If cherry's more you're thing, Kay's is very nearly perfect. Again with a full coverage top crust, the pie bursts with whole, ripe cherries, suspended in their own special sauce, which keeps its shape without being so dense as to overwhelm the crust. Most of Kay's pies ring up on the high end, between $6-$7, but all are 9-inch and still less expensive (as a whole) than a slice will cost at many of the local restaurants to which they provide desserts. But don't expect just to walk in and choose your favorite -- at this time of year the bakery usually has at least pumpkin on hand, but it's best to call ahead and order what you want. Most pies can be done overnight for pick up the next morning.
For a different take on fruit pies, the folks at Reuter's Bakery stick a traditional lattice topping on their apple and cherry. For around $6, the cherry is particularly notable, because the lattice-top crust gives it a slightly different feel. Reuter's allows the lattice to turn a darker shade of brown, which might look overcooked, but is actually wonderful. The slightly crispier crust complements a denser packing of cherries and makes for a richer pie -- to be eaten in small portions only.
The same can be said for Reuter's version of the basic custard pie. I'm not a huge fan of custard -- the combination of eggs, sugar and cream seems rather nasty -- but their version is probably the best you're likely to ever taste. The crust is barely there, light enough to carry the custard, which maintains an airy consistency that doesn't collapse or become soggy, even after a day or two in the fridge.
Since 1911, Roeser's Bakery has been a stalwart in Humboldt Park, holding on through thick and thin as the neighborhood changed around them. Inside it's still the same -- an ample supply of amazing cakes, breads, cookies and pastries the likes of which are rarely seen. Like other bakeries, the variety they have on hand when you walk in will vary -- and they're always so busy that calling ahead can save you time and disappointment -- but their pies are worth inconvenience.
For the final word in chocolate pie, Roeser's large chocolate custard, with whipped cream top, can be had for around $5. With better consistency than a basic chocolate cream pie, which can be so light as to be barely there, the chocolate custard is heavy enough to satisfy, but not so much as to make your stomach protest.
There are a host of more traditionally Southern, transparent pies -- defined as those based on brown sugar, molasses and corn or maple syrup -- which are harder to find. For the holiday favorites sweet potato and pumpkin, try Original Pies, which flavors them with just the right hint of nutmeg -- very important -- turning out a pie that's not too sweet as to overwhelm the flavor. Wishbone Restaurant does a wonderful variation on pecan, offering the dense, caramelized standard, and a chocolate pecan, which dumps some of the nuts for the melted goodness of chocolate morsels. Though their crust needs a bit of work, both their regular pecan and chocolate pecan pies are worth saving room for.
Last, but not least, Baker's Square has long been a Midwestern destination for pies. And though more expensive than a small bakery (pies run more in the $8 range), Baker's Square does one pie to perfection. Their classic French Silk is the best chain-made chocolate cream pie, featuring an incredible crust and signature chocolate shavings -- a good substitute for those who think holiday calories aren't to be wasted on pumpkin pie.
Baker's Square, 7131 North Western, (773)764-7898; 5220 North Harlem,
(773)792-8481; 3649 North Harlem, (773)777-2994
Kay's Bakery, 7332 West Madison, Forest Park, (708)366-3669
Original Pies, 550 East 71st, (773)994-3229
Roesers Bakery, 3216 West North, (773)489-6900
Reuters Bakery, 7177 West Grand, (773)889-1414
Wishbone, 1001 West Washington, (773)850-2663
copyright 1999 New City Communications, Inc.