byChad Schlegel
Spending the night at a luxury hotel has its little perks. We're not just talking about TVs and telephones in the bathroom, the mini beauty products or those little mints that magically appear on your pillow - the real draw is access to the hotel concierge, a full-time dilettante with an encyclopedic knowledge of the local dining scene.
We visited a handful of hotels, from the Loop to River North, and chatted up four of Chicago's finest concierges - Gary Schneider of the Hotel Intercontinental; Abigail Hart of The Four Seasons; Bob Martinez of the Palmer House Hilton; and Rodrick Stigger of Embassy Suites - for their expert recommendations on Chicago's best dining spots for a variety of occasions. Is there such thing as the quintessential Chicago dining experience? If so, it undoubtedly involves a big slab of rare beef - all the concierges we consulted sent us to some sort of steak house. The Four Seasons' Hart says the granddaddy of them all is Gibsons Steak House. "It's beloved by the locals. It feels like a great big party with congenial hosts and humorous, professional waitstaff." She attributes Gibsons' "local institution" status to its "bustling and unpretentious atmosphere" and "big portions prepared simply and honestly."
Any hotel concierge worth his fancy French title knows where to find a little romantic atmosphere. The Palmer House Hilton's Martinez has sent more than a few couples to Nick's Fishmarket because the atmosphere and conscientious staff make it the perfect place to pop The Question. "They really help you out," he says. "They'll take the ring and hide it in shellfish; they pace things perfectly."
Ugly breakups are inevitable, but often public. Next time you swing the ax, have the good sense to choose the location carefully. Our experts suggest going somewhere relatively inexpensive (why bother trying to impress at this point?) and preferably loud. The Embassy Suites' Stigger gives the nod to Scoozi. "It's so big and noisy. When you get cussed out, no one will hear it." The Hotel Intercontinental's Schneider also recommends playing it safe, i.e. "Somewhere without an observation deck."
When it comes to finding a place to grab lunch, most of the experts pointed us toward eateries on or near Michigan Avenue, convenient for shoppers looking to take a load off. Hart recommends Pane Caldo, an intimate, elegant storefront spot reminiscent of a Greenwich Village restaurant. "[It's] an oasis where you can get away from the hubbub and actually talk."
Finding the perfect pre-theater restaurant is not unlike shopping for real estate. It all comes down to location, location, location; make reservations somewhere too far away, and you risk arriving late to the show. Fortunately, plenty of great spots lie in the glow of the city's brightest marquees. Take for example, Brio. "Specifically the tapas bar," says Schneider. "It's just across the river from the theater district, so you can walk off your meal."
Let's face it: Where you take someone on that first date is a crucial signifier in a relationship, so you better make it count. What's the most impressive dinnertime destination? For the next fifteen minutes, says Hart, it's Tru, which follows in the Charlie Trotter tradition of complex combinations of sometimes bizarre ingredients. Even if your date isn't into oxtail soup, they'll likely be bowled over by its artful presentation. "The preparation is fascinating, imaginative, creative and adventuresome," Hart says. Plus, you'll earn points for introducing them to the new kid on the block.
If it's late and you're hungry, Schneider recommends Café Absinthe. He says the Bucktown's café's "New Yorky" sophistication, extensive selection of brews and inventive approach to bar food put it head and shoulders above typical locals bars that serve "too many fried things and not enough beer."
Some people are more interested in the dishes sitting at the next table than the ones they're eating from. If what you're really after is a feast for the eyes, join the Beautiful People at the epicenter of hip known as the Randolph Corridor, home to Grace, Marché, Blackbird and Sushi Wabi. "It's hip, trendy and cutting edge," says Hart. But unlike other flashy flash-in-the-pan eateries, she adds, these fab four have as much substance as style, serving "top-quality" food.
Gibsons Steak House, 1028 North Rush, (312)266-8999
Nick's Fishmarket, 1 First National Bank Plaza, (312)621-0200
Scoozi, 410 West Huron, (312)943-5900
Pane Caldo, 72 East Walton, (312)649-0055
Brio, 10 West Hubbard, (312)467-1010
Tru, 676 North St. Clair, (312)202-0001
Café Absinthe, 1958 West North, (773)278-4488
Grace, 623 West Randolph, (312)928-3200
Marché, 833 West Randolph, (312)266-8399
Blackbird, 619 West Randolph, (312)718-0708
Sushi Wabi, 842 West Randolph, (312)563-1224
copyright 1999 New City Communications, Inc.