by Chad Schlegal
When it comes to dining out, there¹s no debating the importance of a restaurant¹s atmosphere; the right setting can make even the most mundane meal memorable. Witness the popularity of outdoor dining and that time-honored Chicago institution, the beer garden. But what happens when winter buries your favorite summer haunt under a blanket of snow?
Consider: What beer gardens are to summer, fireside dining is to winter. When the mercury heads south, nothing beats a cozy meal by a roaring fire‹what better way is there to enjoy a meal and savor the spirit of the season at the same time? For your dining pleasure, we¹ve rounded up a few of our favorite pubs with fireplaces. All serve up reasonably priced food with an ample side of ski-lodge atmosphere. Moon boots are optional.
The Village Tap, Roscoe Village¹s summer hangout, is also a winter hotspot, thanks to its enclosed, all-season patio, which features a giant fireplace. A few words on seating strategy: First-timers jockey for a position at the table immediately adjacent to the fireplace, then, inside of five minutes, are clambering to escape the oppressive heat. On the other hand, if you sit too near the perimeter of the drafty tent you¹ll freeze your beer nuts off. Your best bet is the second or third tier from the fireplace. There¹s no table service, so take note of your table number and order at the kitchen counter. The menu offers a variety of dressed-up pub grub staples, such as hefty burgers, wings and chicken sandwiches, plus a few surprises, like the tasty hummus plate and quesadillas. The main attraction here is the thirty taps, featuring one of the city¹s biggest selection of microbrews.
Uptown institution Moody Pub is the city¹s most aptly named dining establishment. Upon entering the dark wood-paneled dining room, let your eyes adjust before seating yourself, or you could take a nasty spill. The only light is provided by the glow of two fireplaces‹one just inside the door and one in the rear‹and the meager flicker of candles on tables. If you can get past the feeling that the management is using the dramatic lighting (or lack thereof) to hide sinister goings-on, you¹ll enjoy the simple, but delicious food. Beer connoisseurs may sniff at the modest selection of domestics on tap, but no one can deny the excellent half-pound burgers served with a giant portion of fries for around $6. ³Fancier² dishes, such as a shrimp basket, grilled double chicken breast, fried perch and a 1-pound top sirloin (all come with salad and fries), top out at around $8. A word of warning for vegans: There¹s not much for you here, save for the ³Sizeable Salad.² At $4.75, it was the right price, but it hardly knocked my socks off. Hit the ATM on your way‹no credit cards or checks accepted.
Can one restaurant be all things to all people? Fireside comes close, with one of the most diverse menus around, from ribs to Reubens and everything in between. This North Side favorite lures diners with its split-level outside eating area in the summer, and its cozy dining room in the winter; tables in the slightly formal room are arranged around an attractive brick fireplace with a copper canopy. In keeping with the homey atmosphere, entrées are best described as comfort food. Burgers and sandwiches come with fries for around $7. Entrées such as broiled fish, meatloaf, flame-broiled chicken breasts and a variety of pasta dishes range from $10 to $16. A full slab of baby back ribs, slow-smoked on premises, goes for $15. Sunday brunch, served from 11am to 3pm, features waffles, omelets and a few takes on eggs Benedict (all excellent), and a 110-ingredient bloody Mary bar. Your waiter provides a pint glass filled with ice cubes, a celery stick and a shot of vodka, and the rest is up to you. On a recent visit, fixings included all manner of kitschy hot pepper sauces (I opted for Fifi¹s Naughty Little Secret), and oddities including sliced andouille sausage, artichoke hearts, sardines and Thai peanut sauce (I passed).The Fireside is a great late-night spot‹the cozy dining room is open until midnight on weekends, and the full menu is served at the bar until 3am.
Located a story below street level, the deliberately down-at-the-heels Half Shell raw bar makes up for its lack of refinement with its warm, clubhouse atmosphere. In addition to the two fireplaces, the vibe is influenced by nautical knickknacks, including life preservers, yacht club burgees, navigation lights and stuffed fish dangling from the low ceilings‹needless to say, this is a place for fresh, inexpensive seafood. A half-dozen cherry stone or blue point oysters goes for $5. Other cold dishes include king crab legs for around $10 and steamed jumbo shrimp or stone crab claws for $8. Hot dishes include crab cakes, french-fried clam strips and french-fried squid, all for around $6. Entrées include frog legs, steamed crab, shrimp prepared several ways, whole fried catfish, deep fried smelt, charbroiled tuna, swordfish or salmon, and a slew of surf and turf combinations, all ranging from $13 to $20 (cash only).
Village Tap, 2055 West Roscoe, (773)883-0817
Moody¹s Pub, 5910 North Broadway, (773)275-2696
Fireside, 5739 North Ravenswood, (773)561-7433
The Half Shell, 676 West Diversey, (773)549-1773
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