Margaret Wappler

Were body language necessary to convey my feelings about Sauce, it would be a tired shrug. Nothing's bad here, just boring, which is almost worse. My pan-seared ahi tuna was good enough, but will I remember it a week from now? No. And considering I paid twenty bucks for the thing, I'd prefer to block it out. An appetizer of artichoke and spinach gratin was cheesy enough for my friend to describe as addictive, but I found the whole chunks of artichoke difficult to eat. Inhabiting a bad karma spot where other restaurants have already failed, Sauce needs to lean hard on the aspects that make Lincoln Park restaurants shine -- creative, spunky food, bolstered by a sharp decor. As it stands now, Sauce offers lackluster surroundings and a menu filled with unoriginal, uninspired ideas. Standbys are fine if they're done exceedingly well and fairly priced, but this isn't the case here.

1750 North Clark, (312)932-1750, hours Sun-Wed noon-10, Thu-Sat noon-11pm. Bar: Sun-Fri noon-2am, Sat noon-3am. $$/V, MC, AmEx. (2000-10-26)

Also by Margaret Wappler

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Restaurant Review
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AMERICAN DREAMS
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