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CLICK HERE TOP BROWSE OVER 500 RESTAURANTS

Resto 100
Chicago's Essential Restaurants

Michael Nagrant, editor

Last year, Chicago's culinary talent took over the food world, storming all media from Gourmet magazine to Food Network's Iron Chef. It's no longer homerism or an empty boast to say that we are the first American city of cuisine. New York may have more restaurants and San Francisco may have great wine lists, but we are now the innovators and the premiere destination for American food travelers. With the opening of restaurants from American star chefs like Douglas Rodriguez and David Burke, the invasion of national and international culinary talent has just begun. Rumors of French super chefs Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon dropping anchor in the near future signals that the we are now well on our way to becoming the international food destination.

Resto 100 is, as it has been in years past, a list of "essential" restaurants, which is most definitely not synonymous with "best." We strive to reflect a world of dining in a constant state of innovative transition, to capture a snapshot of the state of the food world at this particular time. (Michael Nagrant)

Resto 100
Chicago's essential restaurants

Organized alphabetically by neighborhood

$ = most entrées under $10
$$ = most entrées $10-$20
$$$ = most entrées over $20
$$$$ = most entrées (or degustation menus) over $30
All restaurants accept major credit cards, unless otherwise noted

Albany Park

Semiramis
Middle Eastern, 4639 N. Kedzie, (773)279-8900. $
BYOB and the best rotisserie chicken in the city. The spot for Lebanese featuring juicy grape leaves and coriander-perfumed falafel.

Wellfleet Occasional Restaurant
Seafood, 4423 N. Elston, (773)283-7400. $$$$
The Fish Guy, Bill Dugan, is now adding "restaurant guy" to his title by serving up seafood-focused degustation menus that feature terrines ala Joel Robuchon.

Andersonville

HopLeaf Bar
French/Belgian, 5148 N. Clark, (773)334-9851. $$
Hopleaf's compact menu offers comforting French/Belgian bar standards done well, like mussels steamed in Belgian white beer.

Auburn Gresham

Lagniappe
Cajun/Creole, 1525 W. 79th, (773)994-6375. $
Mary Madison's from-scratch eats include a chocolate-brown swamp of spicy étouffée filled with plump crawfish, specks of peppers and onion surrounded by an island of white rice. One gulp and a lost afternoon in New Orleans comes rushing back.

Avondale

Arun's
Thai, 4156 N. Kedzie, (773)539-1909. $$$$
Arun Sampanthavivat has created America's finest Thai restaurant, a must-stop on every culinary tour of town. No menu will be presented; instead your waiter will quiz you on your preferences, and then bring you twelve courses accordingly prepared.

Hot Doug's
Sausages, 3324 N. California, (773)279-9550. $
Doug Sohn's "encased-meats" emporium, the best hot-dog joint in Chicago, which also means the best in the world. Go for the exotic sausages--wild boar, rattlesnake, etc.--that Sohn always has as specials; go for the duck-fat fries available every Friday and Saturday; but more than anything, go for the lovingly prepared classic dogs, Polish sausages and other old favorites.

Kuma's Corner
Upscale Pub, 2900 W. Belmont, (773)-604-8769. $
The Hell's Angels version of Hopleaf, serving up bad-ass beer and the best burgers, named after metal bands like Sabbath and Slayer, in the city.

Bridgeport

Franco's Ristorante
Italian, 300 W. 31st, (312)225-9566. $$
Franco's red neon sign illuminates the otherwise unremarkable corner of 31st Street and Princeton, four blocks north of U.S. Cellular Field. Inside Franco's, you'll find fine cuisine without pretense, without a long wait for a table, and without high prices. The daily list of specials is nearly as long as the menu, and it frequently features two standards that should not be overlooked: the eggplant parmesan and the herb-crusted tilapia.

Bucktown

Hot Chocolate
New American, 1747 N. Damen, (773)489-1747. $$
Mindy Segal, one of the city's greatest pastry gurus, slings cake and comfort food, albeit elegant crafted versions of favorites like mac and cheese and tuna melts.

Scylla
New American/Seafood, 1952 N. Damen, (773)227-2995. $$
Stephanie Izard's re-positioned her former upscale fish spot as a neighborhood restaurant, but the food is as skillfully prepared as ever, and the only thing that's changed at this homey Bucktown worker's cottage are the prices, which are now even more wallet-friendly.

Silver Cloud
American, 1700 N. Damen, (773)489-6212. $
A king of comfort food, epitomized by its legendary grilled cheese served on giant slabs of crusty, butter-doused bread.

Irazu
Costa Rican, 1865 N. Milwaukee, (773)252-5687. $/Cash only
The city's sole Costa Rican restaurant serves Latin food heavy on black beans, rice and plantains, but its vegetarian burritos--packed with mushrooms, rice, avocado and hot peppers--puts the plain old Mexican burrito to shame.

Piece
Pizza, 1927 W. North, (773)772-4422. $
A Wicker Park pizzeria and brewpub that serves New Haven-style (that's thin crust) pies with a broader range of toppings--like meatballs or broccoli.

Spring
New American, 2039 W. North, (773)395-7100. $$$
Shawn McClain's Asian-influenced Spring spawned a legend-in-the-making. The menu favors seafood, in creative presentations, grounded in Midwestern food elements.

Chinatown

Emperor's Choice
Chinese, 2238 S. Wentworth, (312)225-8800. $$
It's hard to go too wrong--or too right--in Chinatown, but this casually elegant one-room restaurant stands above most. The menu is a, duh, Chinese menu of variety, but the specialty is seafood, which is prepared fresh and in an authentic style.

Lao Sze Chuan
Chinese, 2172 S. Archer, (312)326-5040. $$
This nondescript, bustling spot in the newer north end of Chinatown--that is, in the outdoor mall--is the place everyone's buzzing about. Whether it's foodies or Chinese expats, Lao Sze Chuan's spicy menu is drawing crowds, and deservedly so. Chinese patrons seem to favor the fondue-like hot pot, but we're content to let chef Tony Hu do the cooking.

Penang
Malaysian, 2201 S. Wentworth, (312)326-6888. $$
Penang's a bit of a detour for Chinatown fans, since it features Malaysian cuisine. But it's a trip worth taking for delicious but unusual (to palates more familiar with the more popular Asian cuisines) dishes and sauces, and even desserts.

East Garfield Park

Edna's
Soul food, 3175 W. Madison, (773)638-7079. $
Brimming with history--the soul-food palace was a key gathering spot for civil rights leaders in the sixties--Edna's sings a song of the South. With its unbelievable fried chicken, creamy mac and cheese and savory vegetable faves like collard greens and fried okra, Edna's delivers.

Edgewater

Pasteur
Vietnamese, 5525 N. Broadway, (773)878-1061. $$
Arguably the best-known Vietnamese restaurant in the city, Pasteur is also one of the most lushly romantic spots in town--like stepping into a former colonial mansion in a scene from Marguerite Duras' "The Lover."

Gold Coast/Streeterville

David Burke's Primehouse
New American Steakhouse, 616 N. Rush St., (312)660-6000. $$$
If P.T. Barnum and Julia Child had an illegitimate encounter, David Burke would be their spawn. At Primehouse, Burke's serving up designer grass-fed beef genetically derived from his $250,000 Angus bull stud, Prime 207L. With his lobster, steak and cheesecake lollipops, bacon-flavored sprays and pink rock-salt curing rooms, Burke is a bigger culinary showman than Emeril.

De La Costa
Nuevo Latino, 465 E. Illinois, (312)321-8930. $$$
You know you've hit the culinary big time when food stars like Douglas Rodriguez invade. This spot features all things upscale Latino for those who can't decide on whether they want Mexican, South American or Cuban.

Le Colonial
Vietnamese/French, 937 N. Rush, (312)255-1221. $$
The chic downtown style and sepia-toned romance of time gone by (in this case, the French-occupied Saigon of the 1920s) make Le Colonial a cultural and culinary curiosity.

foodlife
Food court, 835 N. Michigan, mezzanine, (312)335-3663. $
The ultimate food court. From rotisserie to stir fry, soup to pasta, foodlife's got something for you--and the handy smart-card system means you can wander from kiosk to kiosk, loading up, and not have to deal with the bill until you leave.

NoMi
French-Asian, Park Hyatt, 800 N. Michigan, 7th Floor (312)239-4030. $$$
Park Hyatt Chicago's gem is NoMi, a spectacular, sprawling space and unrivaled room with a view overlooking Michigan Avenue. Chef Christophe David spices up the menu with sushi/sashimi flown in daily.

Spiaggia
Italian, 980 N. Michigan, (312)280-2750. $$$$
Chicago's unanimous four-star Italian restaurant continues to soar both literally (overlooking North Michigan Avenue) and figuratively, under the creative reigns of its founding chef Tony Mantuano.

Tru
French, 676 N. St. Clair, (312)202-0001. $$$$
Artistically prepared and exquisite in taste, Tru's cuisine never disappoints. Indulge in a three-course prix fixe dinner that allows you to enjoy such specialties as the caviar staircase. Or choose one of the degustation delights (vegetable collection, seafood collection, "The Grand Collection," "Chef Tramonto's Collection"), seven- and eight-course meals designed to create a sensory overload.

Greektown

Parthenon
Greek, 314 S. Halsted, (312)726-2407. $$
The oldest spot in Greektown. Flaming saganaki cheese--the hallmark of Greek restaurants everywhere--was invented right here on Halsted Street in the 1960s by current and original owner Chris Liakouras. The Parthenon also played a role in popularizing the gyro in Chicago by giving it away as sort of a free amuse course from 1968-1971. They still serve the best gyros in town, make most everything from scratch and eschew frozen appetizers and pre-made foods used by their competitors.

Irving Park

Smoque
3800 N. Pulaski, (773)545-7427. $
Proving you don't need bulletproof glass to offer up some of the best `Que in Chicago, Smoque serves up tender juicy brisket and spicy, gently smoked toothsome ribs. Sides like mac and cheese or baked beans, which are usually a sideline at other BBQ spots, are as good as the meat.

Lakeview

Chicago Diner
Vegetarian, 3411 N. Halsted, (773)935-6696. $
Seitan and quinoa may need defining for the average carnivore, but for the vegetarians out there, these foods (wheat gluten and a high-protein grain, respectively) symbolize a dining experience with boundless choices.

Erwin
American Bistro, 2925 N. Halsted, (773)528-7200. $$
Chef Erwin Drechsler, in crisp chef whites with his salt-and-pepper beard, often mans the maitre d' station, peering out over his reading glasses to scan for your reservation or bid you a hearty adieu after a filling meal. Drechsler is the man who taught lauded Blackbird chef, Paul Kahan, how to cook, so it should be no surprise that the seasonally focused, market-based cuisine on display at Blackbird is also the same rubric from which Drechsler works.

Mia Francesca
Italian, 3311 N. Clark, (773)281-3310. $$
A simple interior of white paper-covered tables and handwritten, photocopied menus belies the noisy, energetic atmosphere of waiters carting heaping bowls of full-flavored Italian pastas to tables of well-heeled professionals.

Orange
Breakfast, 3231 N. Clark, (773)549-4400; 75 W. Harrison, (312)447-1000. $
A cheerful, creative vibe permeates your experience, from the self-designed fresh juices to the "frushi," a fruit-sushi appetizer. The creativity permeates the menu as well--from the green eggs and ham (scrambled with tomatoes, mozzarella, pancetta and pesto) to the French-toast kabob, a skewer of coconut-infused French toast and fruits.

Yoshi's Café
French-Japanese, 3257 N. Halsted, (773)248-6160. $$$
Casual, healthy French-American flavors prevail at chef Yoshi Katsumara's eponymous café, from grilled tofu to silky soups to kobe-style beef.

Lincoln Park

Alinea
New American, 1723 N. Halsted, (312)867-0110. $$$$
Grant Achatz has been dubbed a molecular gastronomist, but compared to most of his peers he tempers his wizardry with a lot more flavor and craft. Everything at Alinea changes so fast, and the cuisine, the serveware and the interior design, which is far removed from its culinary progenitors, is in such constant flux, that if there has to be a label, it should probably be "Evolutionary Gastronomy."

Boka
New American, 1729 N. Halsted, (312)337-6070. $$
Chef Giuseppe Tentori, who spent eight years as Charlie Trotter's right-hand man, brings his rustic flare for grilled rabbit, ash-baked eggplant and creamy polenta to Lincoln Park.

Charlie Trotter's
New American, 816 W. Armitage, (773)248-6228. $$$$
Behind the ivy-covered brick facade of owner/chef Trotter's demure Armitage brownstone lies a five-star dining experience that everyone deserves at least once. Set aside two or three hours to fully enjoy Trotter's culinary creations and his outstanding wine selection.

Fixture
Funky American Small Plates, 2706 N. Ashland, (773)248-3331. $$
At most lounges, the food takes a backseat to revelry and spacey beats, but the kitchen crew at Fixture redeems your faith in small plates. The buffalo sliders with truffle mayonnaise are more Buckingham Palace than White Castle, and Pasilla-marinated lobster ceviche is a ballet of texture and flavor, with creamy hunks of spicy lobster, crunchy jicama salad and citrusy cactus-pear emulsion.

Mon Ami Gabi
French bistro, 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, (773)348-8886. $$$
With a beautiful park-side setting and a lively French-bistro charm, Gabino Sotelino's downscale little sister to Ambria proves the range of the master chef's charms. Ah, steak frites...

North Pond
New American, 2610 N. Cannon, (773)477-5845. $$$
Nestled in the picturesque environs of Lincoln Park, this homage to all things artisanal offers locally raised meats and organic products whenever possible.

Sweets and Savories
New American, 1534 W. Fullerton, (773)281-6778. $$$
David Rich's gourmet balancing act between dessert and dinner is best represented by his extensive value-driven prix-fixe dinner. Not interested? Then choose from ala carte items like scallops in orange-scented demi-glace.

Lincoln Square/North Center

Bistro Campagne
French, 4518 N. Lincoln, (773)271-6100. $$
Chef-owner Michael Altenberg has brought the country-cuisine charms of his Campagnola Italian restaurant in Evanston to Bistro Campagne and its moderately priced lineup of French champagnes, wines and menu classics.

Chicago Brauhaus
German, 4732 N. Lincoln, (773)784-4444. $$
The Chicago Brauhaus lets you celebrate Oktoberfest year-round. A traditional German oompah band rocks here nightly, cranking out your favorite Bavarian drinking tunes and occasionally slowing it down with a little "Edelweiss" while you chow on some hefty classic German dining options.

Sola
New American, 3868 N. Lincoln, (773)327-3868. $$$
California- and Asian-styled gourmet fare like miso black cod, mushroom pad Thai and sake-marinated steak from chef Carol Wallack.

Spoon Thai
Thai, 4608 N. Western, (773)769-1173. $
The Royal Thai Army must be led by Colonel Sanders, because the crunchy red-chili-spiced Thai fried chicken (kai thawt) served at Spoon easily dethrones Harold's as Chicago's new chicken king. Sure you can score pad Thai, but now you can order like a Bangkok regular and sample authentic specialties thanks to a translated "Thai regulars" menu.

Little Italy

Gennaro's
Italian, 1352 W. Taylor, (312)243-1035. $
Gennaro's is an old red-sauce emporium in Little Italy serving up La Famiglia-style eats. John Jr. tends bar, pouring tipples of a garnet Chianti (the same house formula his father served in 1959), while Mary Jo works the room like a Southern-fried waitress, peppering her conversation with a well-placed "honey." Gennaro's has made few concessions to history. A legacy from when the neighborhood used to be dicey, John buzzes you in from behind the bar.

Pompeii Bakery
Italian, 1431 W. Taylor, (312)421-5179; 2955 N. Sheffield, (773)325-1900. $
Stepping into this bustling cafeteria-style Italian joint on Taylor Street, it would be hard to imagine its origins as a Little Italy bakery, if not for the mural-sized photo placed lovingly on the wall by its founding family. Although homemade pastas are notable, pizza is still the main attraction, with dozens of options behind a glass counter, ready to reheat by the slice or two.

Tufano's Vernon Park Tap
Italian, 1073 W. Vernon Park Place, (312)733-3393. $/Cash only
The kind of place where the menu is written out daily on a blackboard, Tufano's is at once a classic Chicago bar and a cozy Italian restaurant--a place where you'll never have a bad meal.

Logan Square

Lula Café
New American, 2537 N. Kedzie, (773)489-9554. $$
Co-owners Jason Hammel and Amalea Tshilds conduct daily kitchen jam sessions based on availabilities from local farmers and markets, and deliver their findings in the form of ever-changing and always-surprising specials.

Loop

Atwood Café
American, 1 W. Washington, (312)368-1900. $$$
Before heading to the theater, impress your date with dinner in the Atwood Café at the Burnham Hotel, where haute comfort food is supplemented by unpretentious sophistication. Chef Heather Terhune styles her menu around seasonally available ingredients, but you can almost always count on a hearty potpie for lunch, or unique dinner entrées like garlic-honey-chile-glazed duck breast with Asian pan-fried noodles and shiitake mushroom broth, capped off with perfect vanilla-bean crème brûlèe.

Avenues (Peninsula Hotel)
New American, 108 E. Superior, (312)573-6754. $$$$
Forget filet mignon dotted in ruddy bordelaise. Hotel restaurants, once grand ballrooms of classic uninspired French cuisine, are now laboratories for gastronomic inventiveness. Chef Graham Elliot Bowles led the way last year with Seussian platings like red wafers of kangaroo carpaccio with shavings of melon, eucalyptus, micro mint and swaths of caramel served in a boomerang-shaped dish.

Everest
French, 440 S. LaSalle, 40th Floor, (312)663-8920. $$$$
The quintessential big-city splurge: topnotch French chef Jean Joho, spectacular views of the city, huge wine list and impeccable service.

N9ne Steakhouse
American, 440 W. Randolph, (312)575-9900. $$$
The restaurant/nightclub hybrid launched by Michael Kornick (of mk) and Michael Morton and Scott DeGraff (formerly of Drink) keeps intriguing us with its ostentatious splendor. Once you get past all that glitters, you'll find an array of tasty steaks, chops and seafood.

Viand
American Bistro, 155 E. Ontario, (312)255-8505. $$
This is the best place to eat after a long Mag Mile shopping excursion. Steve Chiappetti, who made his bones at Mango, Grapes and Rhapsody in the late nineties, has made a triumphant return harnessing his mad skills into American bistro-style cooking that is unfussy and a perfect match for Viand's slightly jazz age interior.

Ravenswood

Spacca Napoli Pizza
1769 W. Sunndyside, (773)878-2420. $$
The crust on these wood-fired pizzas is a study in perfect imperfection. Airy, crunchy, with bits of char and lines from the floor of the brick oven, the Margherita topped with creamy fior de latte mozzarella, anise-perfumed basil and zingy tomatoes conjures an afternoon in Naples.

River North

Aigre Doux Restaurant and Bakery
New American, 230 W. Kinzie, (312)329-9400. $$$
Husband and Wife Mohammad Islam and Malika Ameen team up to bring a New American, seasonally focused, detail-oriented touch to River North. Ameen's Sticky Toffee pudding may just be the best new dessert in Chicago.

Big Bowl
Pan Asian, 6 E. Cedar, (312)640-8888; 60 E. Ohio, (312)951-1888. $$
Steamed and fried wontons with various fillings and kung pao chicken are king at this high-design Midwestern Asian noodle shop.

Bin 36
New American, 339 N. Dearborn, (312)755-9463. $$
A huge, dramatic space with an epic, arched ceiling and a terrific menu offering well-prepared renditions of seafood, chicken and pasta would be reason enough to visit, but the main attraction is the wine. Each item on the menu is matched to several wine choices, which can be ordered by the half-glass, the glass, the flight or the bottle.

Café Iberico
Spanish Tapas, 737 N. LaSalle, (312)573-1510. $$
Iberico is a perennial hotspot, always crowded, always a delicious time, with killer tapas and some of the best sangria in the city.

Club Lago
Italian, 331 W. Superior, (312)337-9444. $$
The commission of food is less important than the commission of nostalgia at Club Lago, with strong drinks that rinse away the smack of 1940s-style Chianti-bottle-candle cuisine.

Crofton on Wells
New American, 535 N. Wells, (312)755-1790. $$$
One of the few fine-dining places where you might find a vegan entrée amidst French touches like foie gras. Chef Suzy Crofton has mastered a winning formula--delicious, creative cuisine served in an unpretentious atmosphere.

Cyrano's Bistro
French Bistro, 546 N. Wells, (312)467-0546 $$
Chef Didier Durand is Chicago's lead defender of foie gras, enduring endless protests and the occasional brick through the window. This is an emblematic bistro serving up classics from bouillabaisse to vichysoisse.

Brazzaz
Brazilian, 539 N. Dearborn, (312)595-9000. $$$$
They sling meat on swords like all the other churrasco-style houses in town, but the succulent shrimp--and their superior salad bar which features incredible meats, cheeses and upscale crudites--sets them apart.

Frontera Grill/Topolobampo/Frontera Fresco
Mexican, 445 N. Clark, (312)661-1434. Frontera: $$; Topolobampo: $$$
Chicago is home to what just might be the nation's top Mexican cuisine. Actually, the kitchens of widely acclaimed chef Rick Bayless encompass two sister restaurants. Frontera Grill boasts regional Mexican cuisine with a sophisticated spin, a festive atmosphere and knock-your-socks-off margaritas. Next door, Topolobampo delves deeper into territory at once more elegant and exotic. The newest spot, Fresco, located on the seventh floor of the Macy's store, might be the most important development in high-quality, quick service food in Chicago.

Le Lan
French-Vietnamese, 749 N. Clark, (312)280-9100. $$$$
What happens when not one but two four-star chefs collaborate? In the case of Roland Liccioni and Arun Sampanthavivat, who opened Le Lan together, creative combustion. Consider the evidence: lemongrass-scented grilled bass with water chestnuts, bell peppers, shiitakes and beignet of prawn; or Asian-spiced beef tenderloin with Chinese long beans, Pankoed bok choy, white quinoa and a star anise red-wine sauce, just to name two menu offerings.

mk
French-American, 868 N. Franklin, (312)482-9179. $$$
Chef Michael Kornick's multilevel River North restaurant has drawn crowds since it opened. And creative cooking producing the ever-popular "one banana, two banana" dessert keeps the fans coming back.

NAHA
New American, 500 N. Clark, (312)321-6242. $$$
Taking over the legendary Gordon's space was an act of culinary bravado, but chef Carrie and manager Michael Nahabedian's Naha has lived up to its surroundings. Designed with a simple, yet elegant, interior space, Naha serves up its take on the New American cuisine dominating our city's platters by infusing it with Mediterranean influences.

Osteria via Stato
Italian, 620 N. State, (312)642-8450. $$$
Chef David Di Gregorio's degustation-inspired approach to everyday Italian fare--what Italians might call family-style dining.

Pizzerias Uno and Due
Pizza, Uno: 29 E. Ohio, (312)321-1000; Due: 619 N. Wabash, (312)943-2400. $$
The birthplace of Chicago-style pizza, so they say, is a hotspot for the tourist crowd, but there's not a Chicagoan around who wouldn't salivate at the thought of a Uno/Due pie, packed to the nines with sausage and cheese and washed down with an Old Style.

Shaw's Crab House
Seafood, 21 E. Hubbard, (312)527-2722. $$$
Forget those concerns about seafood in the oceanless Midwest--at Shaw's catches are flown in daily from the Atlantic and you can taste the freshness.

Sushisamba Rio
Sushi, 504 N. Wells, (312)595-2300. $$$
Combining sushi with Latin flavors sounds like fusion hell--till you taste it. Then it's genius. And the Latin music in this contemporary supper club makes every night carnivale.

Zealous
New American, 419 W. Superior, (312)475-9112. $$$
Owner and chef Michael Taus found the perfect venue for his delicate, stylish cooking--a River North loft revamped into an impeccably serene dining area, replete with glass, bamboo and spacious ceilings.

River West

May Street Market
New American, 1132 W. Grand, (312)421-5547. $$$
Chef Alexander Cheswick, formerly of Tru and Le Francais, is glamming up this gritty stretch of Grand Avenue. with seasonal haute fare like Maytag blue cheese cake and oven-roasted skate wing.

Japonais
Asian, 600 W. Chicago, (312)822-9600. $$$
This gorgeous space, in a loft perched over the Chicago River, is restaurateur Miae Lim's latest and greatest hotspot--a Japanese steakhouse with all the sushi and trimmings.

Twisted Spoke
American, 501 N. Ogden, (312)666-1500; 3369 N. Clark, (773)525-5300. $
This biker-bar-gone-neighborhood-hangout is the home of the greatest hamburger in the civilized world, The Fatboy, a half-pound mass of beef and fixins.

Rogers Park/West Ridge

Hema's Kitchen
Indian, 6406 North Oakley, (773)338-1627. $
Anglophiles, British expats, curry aficionados and spiceheads everywhere: your home away from home is Hema's Kitchen.

Khan BBQ
Pakistani, 2401 W. Devon, (773)274-8600. $
The best chicken boti, with flakes of char from the natural-wood-charcoal-fired tandoor and neon green streaks from crushed peppers, is crispy, while seekh kababs, skewered round cylinders of ground beef, onion and coriander, are moist and spicy.

Hai Woon Dae
Korean, 6240 N. California, (773)764-8018. $$
The best place to grill Bulgogi over a bucket of live coals, filch swigs of the Korean Budweiser, OB beer, and live the suburban backyard dream indoors. From bi bim bop to mountains of complimentary Panchan- or Korean-style appetizers, including kim chi, red chili-infused fermented cabbage, this utilitarian store-front open twenty-four hours is a late-night haven.

South Loop/Near South Side

Custom House
New American Steakhouse, 500 S. Dearborn, (312)-523-0200. $$$
The first two times were a charm, so who knows what that makes this, the third restaurant in Shawn McClain's restaurant empire, other than an utterly delicious palace of meats. Bone-in-ribeye and braised short ribs celebrate the sacrifice of cows everywhere.

Gioco
Italian, 1312 S. Wabash, (312)939-3870. $$$
Gioco is an Italian "bistro" with warm, dark woods and brick, a huge open oven, giant ornate mirrors and a selection of delicious rustic Italian cooking, from pastas to savory steaks and chops to wood-fired pizzas.

Manny's
Deli, 1141 S. Jefferson, (312)939-2855. $
The classic deli: New York-style lunch counter, Chicago-style attitude, Manny's is, hands down, the best place to score a sandwich in this city.

Opera
Chinese, 1301 S. Wabash, (312) 461-0161. $$$
From its dramatic fiery-red interior in a former film-storage warehouse to its mesmerizing spicy Chinese dishes, Opera keeps its customers singing its praises out loud.

South Shore

Soul Vegetarian
Vegetarian soul food, 205 E. 75th, (773)224-0104. $
Except for the honey in some sauces, the entire menu here is vegan. Many popular dishes, including the McNugget-shaped (and obscenely addictive) "protein bits," are fried. True to its "soul food without the meat" credo, Soul plays nice with the traditionally carnivorous palate. Uptown

Hai Yen
Vietnamese, 1055 W. Argyle, (773)561-4077. $$
Storefront Vietnamese for curious white folks. Authenticity-seeking chowhounds can score a good bowl of pho replete with beef brisket, bible tripe and tendon, while more discriminating palates might favor gui cuon, or traditional Vietnamese rice-paper spring rolls.

Tweet
Rustic European, 5020 N. Sheridan, (773)728-5576. $$
This is the neighborhood restaurant of your dreams--a tiny spot at unprepossessing Sheridan and Argyle that offers a wonderfully diverse menu of organic-oriented food at accessible prices. This is the kind of place that's done so simply and intelligently that you wonder why every neighborhood can't have one just like it.

West Loop

Avec Restaurant & Wine Bar
Mediterranean, 615 W. Randolph, (312)377-2002. $$$
Cozy, storefront neo-enoteca with communal dining and simple but often sublime Mediterranean-inflected cooking, the handiwork of chef Koren Grieveson.

Blackbird
New American, 619 W. Randolph, (312)715-0708. $$$
Chef Paul Kahan's California-derived simplicity has inspired the newest generation of restaurateurs to care about ingredients and freshness instead of spicy presentation.

Marché
French, 833 W. Randolph, (312)226-8399. $$$
Although the Randolph Market restaurant district wasn't born here, the advent of Marché let everyone know it was here to stay. The spectacle of the large wide-open space and its fashionable crowd, as well as a consistently excellent menu, have allowed Marché to remain in vogue much longer than the shelf life of most trends.

Moto
Asian, 945 W. Fulton Market, (312)491-0058. $$$$
Homaro Cantu dishes food with the cerebral abandon of James Joyce and the creepy technological obsession of William Burroughs. Edible menus and dishes like Maki in the Fifth Dimension, donut soup and Kentucky-fried ice cream are already Chicago classics.

one sixtyblue
New American, 1400 W. Randolph, (312)850-0303. $$$
The outside is painted a stark, cobalt blue, but inside the interior softens into paler hues of yellow and blue, courtesy of designer Adam Tihany. Chef Martial Noguier serves up French with a lighter twist in a spacious dining room featuring comfortably spaced tables that allow conversation without raising your voice.

Red Light
Pan Asian, 820 W. Randolph, (312)733-8880. $$$
A swanky, boku décor and an eclectic mix of Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese and Indonesian flavors combine to make this one of the most popular spots on Harpo Row.

Sushi Wabi
Sushi, 842 W. Randolph, (312)563-1224. $$
Most sushi joints would have to work hard to beat the meditative food experience of this little West Loop staple. Besides the standard entrees of tempura and teriyaki, they also have a two-piece-per-order dinner sushi menu that includes red flying fish roe and a mean, wood-smoked salmon, or tobikko.

Wicker Park/Ukrainian Village

Bongo Room
Breakfast, 1470 N. Milwaukee, (773)489-0690; 1152 S. Wabash, (312)427-9972. $
The Bongo Room has a brunch menu that's worth the extended wait, stocked with choices like eggs benedict with roasted red pepper and feta.

El Barco
Mexican Seafood, 1035 N. Ashland, (773)486-6850. $$
This spot on Ashland looks like the prow of a wooden ship. Featuring some of Chicago's best Mexican seafood including tostada de pulpo, a crunchy corn wafer topped with purple chunks of octopus glistening and swimming in limey cilantro infusion or huachinango al mojo de ajo, a whole deep-fried snapper with its crunchy fins and crispy tail suspended in batter, and topped with chopped garlic, white wine and cilantro sauce.

Flo
Southwestern, 1434 W. Chicago, (312)243-0477. $$
A funky café outfitted in folk art with a tasty touch of Santa Fé menu, Flo has grown from a brunch hotspot to a lunch and dinner staple known for innovative cuisine at modest prices.

Green Zebra
Vegetarian, 1460 W. Chicago, (312)243-7100. $$
In Shawn McClain's hotspot, it's the thirty or so items on the menu on any given visit that wow, including inventive salads, a rich polenta and an avocado panna cotta, tomato gelee and crème fraiche concoction that won't be forgotten.

Mas
Nuevo Mexican, 1670 W. Division, (773)276-8700. $$
Delight in resourceful spicings and inventive seafood that manages to flourish amid sturdy martinis.

Mirai
Sushi, 2020 W. Division, (773)862-8500. $$
Live sushi: there are two words to wake you up, followed by the sinful sensations of the freshest savors. Pricey sakes and champagnes could go to the head and handbag, but instead listen attentively to the glorious specials, sparkling and tangy, drawing from traditions only now beginning to float into basic sushi joints.

Rodan
South American, 1530 N. Milwaukee, (773)276-7036. $$
The South American and Asian fare is good (great wasabi fries and fish tacos), but it's almost worth the trip alone to this Wicker Park hotspot to head to the bathroom and check out the video mirrors. At night, a big art crowd checks each other out at this see-and-be-seen place.

Schwa
Punk Haute, 1466 N. Ashland, (773)252-1466. $$
The best BYO Chicago storefront restaurant run by chefs sporting mohawks--where the wine is served in glass tumblers and the ravioli with gently poached quail egg soaking in ricotta, brown butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano--is worth the elusive reservation. See feature.

West Town Tavern
Contemporary Comfort, 1329 West Chicago Avenue, (312)666-6175. $$
You'll find solid, moderately priced entrées prepared with the finest ingredients, from the farfalle tossed with spicy sausage, eggplant, zucchini, fresh mozzarella, capers and oven-cured tomato to the zinfandel-braised pot roast with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and Pennsylvania Dutch black vinegar sauce. But don't skip the tavern beer cheese appetizer--it's a true classic.

The Sultan of Schwa
Michael Carlson and his unconventional dream

(2007-03-27)




Also by Michael Nagrant, editor






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