Sam Weller

Every so often, a small, independent publisher puts out a book so pure, so innocent, that no big New York publishing house could ever come within a mile of imitating it. Thank God for the little guy.

With "A Pinch of This and A Pinch of That," authors (and husband and wife) Salvino and Margo Madonna have created a keepsake treasure that belongs in every kitchen. Here is a cookbook--part heartwarming memoir, part culinary primer--that melds the history of one of Chicago's great restaurant families with the recipes that made them famous. Italian sausage with brown sugar peppers. Mussels in Sherry sauce. And, of course, tons of pasta smothered with rich sauces.

The story begins in 1967, at 24 East Chicago Avenue. For fifteen years, Mama Lena's Italian Kitchen attracted all sorts--from celebs to the classic working-class Chicago family craving an authentic Sicilian meal. With Mama Lena Madonna commanding the kitchen, the tiny restaurant was almost always jam-packed. She was assisted by her son Salvino and, later, his wife Margo. The eatery was a favorite of Jimmy Durante, Joe Di Maggio, even Sammy Davis, Jr., among many others.

Mama Lena passed away in 1998 (at the age of 93), and the restaurant is now just a distant, sweet memory. (Salvino and Margo are in the catering biz.) But now, as a tribute to their beloved "Mama," the Salvinos have unlocked the secret recipe box and are sharing the joys of this once proud Chicago restaurant. The book includes pictures from the old days, along with stories and dozens and dozens of recipes explained in an informal, fun fashion.

"I used to tell Mama that I wanted to do this book when it was all just in my head," says Margo. "And she would say, 'One day you'll have time to do it. You will do the book.'"

"This book is really a labor of love," adds Salvino. "One of the greatest compliments that Mom paid Margo was during the Christmas before she passed [away]. Margo made the very special Cucidati Cookies that are in the book and Mom said to her, 'These taste like my cookies.' That's the best thing Mom could have ever said."

Salvino and Margo Madonna will sign copies of their book, "A Pinch of This and A Pinch of That," September 16 at Borders, 1144 West Lake Street, Oak Park, (708)386-6927. (2000-09-14)

Also by Sam Weller

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This is the amazing Grace Cubs fans revere, worship, know and love. To the throngs of Cubby diehards too young to remember Ernie Banks for anything but his retired number flapping on the left field flagpole at Wrigley, Mark Grace is, no question, this generation's Mr. Cub.
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STATE OF GRACE
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Seventies heaven
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Seventies heaven
(2000-03-02)

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