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features

Well Designed
Conversations with Gen Art's Fourth Annual Fresh Faces in Fashion

Jennifer Berg

On the runway at Fresh Faces, the Spring 2007 collections of six up-and-comers were brought to vivid life. The goal of the show (according to the press release): to expose these emerging talents to "key fashion media, influential stylists, retail buyers and Chicago's premier tastemakers." The featured clothing designers: Shanel Regier, Marlena Maree, Sujata Gadzer, Joynoelle, Daniella Siahou and Vatit Itthi.

We wanted some insight on the soon-to-be-huge designers, so we emailed a few gimme-the-scoop questions. (Jennifer Berg)

Danielle Siahou of Siahou

NC: How did you come up with the name of your line?
DS: The name of the line SIAHOU is my mother's maiden name. My mother is French and SIAHOU is the name of all of my family in France.

NC: What is your design focus?
DS: The design focus of the SIAHOU collection is high-end women's ready-to-wear.

NC: How would you describe your signature style?
DS: The signature style of the collection is modern, sophisticated with a European edge.

NC: What kind of person would look best in your designs and what kind of a lifestyle do you think your collection best suits?
DS: There is no specific age or body type for my designs. This collection is designed for the woman who lives out every aspect of her life, from work to family to social events. The pieces from my collection are designed to transition beautifully from day to evening.

NC: What are some predominant themes in your latest collection?
DS: For Spring 07, the collection is made from beautiful light spring fabrics from silk, modal/cashmere to cotton/linen and cotton sateen. The colors are based on a white collection with black and brown shimmer accent pieces.

NC: Do you play a part in picking your models, creating makeup looks, etc. and if so, can you describe the look and attitude you were going for on the runway?
DS: The look of the SIAHOU collection for Spring is a minimal chic. The makeup is natural look with an emphasis on the eyes.

Annie Mohaupt of MOHOP INC

NC: How did you come up with the name of your line?
AM: The name of my line is the phonetic pronunciation of my last name, Mohaupt.

NC: What is your design focus?
AM: Women's sandals.

NC: How would you describe your signature style?
AM: My style is very architecturally inspired, as I was trained as an architect and have seven years of experience in the field. As with architecture, I place emphasis on both form and function. I tend toward simple ideas and forms that can be expressed in multiple ways. My goal is to create durable and comfortable shoes that are beautiful both on and off the foot.

NC: What kind of person would look best in your designs (in terms of age, body type, etc.) and what kind of a lifestyle do you think your collection best suits?
AM: My customers range from teenagers to grandmothers--my shoes appeal to all ages and backgrounds because their appearance and fit is easily customized by the wearer. Younger people are really inspired by the unlimited unique looks they can easily create with the sandals [Mohop sandals feature interchangeable ribbon laces], and older people appreciate how comfortable they are. My customers tend to be the type of women who want to stand out from the crowd, and have a great appreciation of fine craftsmanship and handmade things.

NC: What are some predominant themes in your latest collection?
AM: My current collection is all about allowing the wearer to express herself. My shoes can be tied to the feet with any sort of ribbon, laces, fabric strips, or scarves; the look can range from minimalist and sophisticated to highly embellished and ornate. It's really up to the wearer to create her own vision.

NC: Do you play a part in picking your models, creating makeup looks, etc.
and if so, can you describe the look and attitude you were going for on the runway?
AM: The accessory designers will create a `boutique-like' display of their line, as opposed to showing on the runway. I'm excited to use my background in architecture to create an atmosphere that reflects the strong, simple lines that form the basis of my shoe designs.

Marlena Maree of Marlena Maree

NC: How did you come up with the name of your line?
MM: Marlena is my first name and I wanted to incorporate my daughter's name (Ana-Maria), also my business partner. The two of us came up with "mareé" which is close to `'Maria," but it's also Romanian for "the tide" and as such indicates a change, a beginning, a reflection of goals for the line.

NC: What is your design focus?
MM: My focus on ready-to-wear, but I do incorporate a few cocktail pieces in each collection. I can't escape my desire to design couture and evening.

NC: How would you describe your signature style?
MM: The magic is in the details: handmade rosettes, hand-crocheted dresses incorporating ten different yarns, immaculate hand-stitching and pin-tucking. I take great pride in hand work, since I first learned to sew by hand. [Key elements of my line are] hand-knitting, embroidery, trimming and the combination of yarn with fabrics. This arrangement I think, is what my customer really likes and comes back for.

NC: What kind of person would look best in your designs (in terms of age, body type, etc.) and what kind of a lifestyle do you think your collection best suits?
MM: Marlena Maree will appeal to women who value my signature, my love for design and women who appreciate style, beauty, femininity, sophistication and quality. Age is relative, but if I were to choose, probably 25-55. Our fit is amazing and I'll venture into trends like skinny pants with low waists, but not super contemporary. Maybe I'm a little more classical in that respect.

NC: What are some predominant themes in your latest collection?
MM: The colors are light and airy with bright accents. You'll see feminine silhouettes accented by high waistlines, gentle shapes and detailed trimming. Full skirts and billowy dresses balanced by hand-knit blouses and dresses. The prints are vibrant and youthful. The wardrobe mixes pearlized cotton blend, cotton voile, crinkled georgette and tulle. Subtle hand detailing, such as braided belts, pleating, pin tucks, and appliqués trimmed in colorful yarn is carried throughout the collection.

NC: Do you play a part in picking your models, creating makeup looks, etc. and if so, can you describe the look and attitude you were going for on the runway?
MM: For the Spring runway, I wanted to capture the romantic and gentle mood of the collection, so makeup will either be an overall soft palette with accents of monochromatic tones and a clean feel, or place emphasis on the eye with shimmer shadows with high lip gloss. Hair will either be up in a supple ponytail (maybe a little tease) or left loose. I'll let the hair stylists guide me. The idea is to bring out the clothes and to make them work well together with the makeup and models.

JOYNOELLE

NC: How did you come up with the name of your line?
JN: I was born on Christmas Eve. My first name is Joy and my middle name is Noelle. So I put them together for my design name, Joynoelle.

NC: What is your design focus?
JN: My focus is demi-couture ready-to-wear. Each limited-run piece is made using both machine and hand working techniques.

NC: How would you describe your signature style?
JN: Classic line, lush fabrics and playful details.

NC: What kind of person would look best in your designs and what kind of a lifestyle do you think your collection best suits?
JN: The women who wear Joynoelle fit more of a personality rather than an age group. They like attention, love to be noticed and they want something no one else has.

NC: What are some predominant themes in your latest collection?
JN: My Spring 07 collection is feminine, fun and flirty. Lots of color and texture taken from the flowers in my backyard and by my cabin.

NC: Do you play a part in picking your models, creating makeup looks, etc. and if so, can you describe the look and attitude you were going for on the runway?
JN: The models' hair and makeup will be soft and pretty. The collection is the focus so the hair and makeup will just compliment the pieces not over power them. I look for models that can show a little attitude and have fun on the runway.

(2006-10-03)




Also by Jennifer Berg

Dress Code: Multi-Culti
With a celebrity-studded guest list, jaw-dropping fashions and a live soundtrack provided by Beyonce, the Chicago Theater becomes a "glamosphere" just in time to host Glamorama's deliriously decadent fashion show this Friday
(2006-09-26)

In Our Fashion
Only two years old--but already sophisticated and chic--Fashion Focus Chicago waves the city's style flag for twelve glamorous days
(2006-09-19)

By Design
Last Thursday, downtown's swanky J Bar was tied up for a private launch party. Inside, clipboard-holding ladies manned the floor in gender-bending ensembles that would make Annie Hall proud. The accessory of honor: neckwear from Bird Dog Bay
(2006-09-12)

The Art of Fashion
When Kristin Skordilis opened her West Loop boutique less than a year ago, she named the store Koros after the Greek goddess of extravagant joy
(2006-09-05)

Open for Business
(2006-08-29)

By Design
(2006-08-22)

By Design
(2006-08-15)

Open for Business
(2006-08-08)

Open for Business
(2006-08-01)

Open for Business
(2006-07-25)

By Design
(2006-07-18)

Open for Business
(2006-06-27)






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Copyright Newcity Communications, Inc.

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