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 A Certain Style Fashion Focus Chicago Diary
September 25, 2006: Fresh Faces in Fashion Gen Art's Fresh Faces in Fashion kicked off the biggie Fashion Focus
shows in Millennium Park.
Famous for launching the careers of up-and-comers who were soon
fixtures on the fashion scene, this was one of Zac Posen's first big
shows.
The evening began with a cocktail reception in an enormous white tent
covering the rooftop terrace. I arrived unfashionably early (before the
bar was even open) but had a chance to peruse an uncrowded
exhibition
of
accessories by local designers: shoes by Elizabeth Brady and Mohop, Obi
sashes by Vanessa Penna and vintage-inspired garments by Kit
LaCroix.
As the cocktail reception grew more crowded, I embarked on the week's
most excellent bout of mingling. Dynamic scenesters from all kinds of
industries popped by--PR execs, fashion designers, writers,
photographers, philanthropists--it was a great, energetic group and
everyone seemed jazzed to be there.
A group of people standing at the back gave this show a "standing
room only" mystique, while front rows were seemingly dominated by the
young press, though recognizable fashion veterans (think Nena Ivon,
director of Saks PR and producer of Fashion Columbia) sat ringside as
well.
The designers represented on the runway: Daniella Siahou, Joynoelle,
Marlena Maree, Shanel Regier, Sujata Gazder and Vatit Itthi. I had a
lovely email parlance with several of these designers over the course
of
the week, just to get the basic scoop on some of their lines, so check
out what they had to say here.
I did want to mention the collection of one designer I wasn't able to
get in touch with, Shanel Regier. She lives in Milwaukee (for now,
anyway--I hope she'll move here) and designs to the beat of bygone
eras.
Her spring 2007 collection reminded me of a ballroom scene from
Cinderella: There were pouffy sleeves, corset-like details and a color
palette inspired by the pinks, creams and greens of flower petals. Her
clothing was impeccably pretty, and it was artistic and wearable en
meme
temps.
The evening ended with a packed after-party at downtown's James
Hotel--the current hotspot for upscale but young soirees. Most of the
designers came, which was nice, and a DJ spun hits from the nineties,
which means that everyone in his or her twenties (that'd be me!)
busted
out some moves. Oh dear.
September 26, 2006: Sister Cities Fashion Show
As Chicago reached the midway point of throwing the world's most
fashionable tent party (also known as Fashion Focus Chicago 2006), the
city decided to make the affair a little more global and so presented
World Fashion Chicago. Hosted by the Chicago Sister Cities
International
Program, the event proved that in the fashion world, Chicago has many
allies, including Paris, whose committee within the Chicago Sister
Cities Program hosted the pre-show reception. Apparently Chicago's
recent ban on foie gras hasn't caused too much of a rift with its
relationship with the French.
The pre-show reception featured drinks, French-inspired appetizers
and beefed-up security awaiting the arrival of Mayor Richard M. Daley.
Understanding the trends of world fashion can be confusing, but
throwing
a good pre-fashion show reception is not. And the Sister Cities
committee got it right by not deviating from the recipe of an open bar
and plenty of hors d'oeuvres.
The actual fashion show began with a speech from Mayor Daley
explaining the importance of Fashion Focus and the importance of
international designers. This was followed by a model strutting down
the
catwalk while holding a globe, which was followed by each designer
being
announced by their hometown. The force-feeding of the theme to the
audience was a little much, but then again, watching a model in heels
spin a globe was rather memorable.
The show's flaws were all fairly minor. World Fashion Chicago
delivered the goods and left the packed tent with plenty to talk about.
Milan fashion houses Dolce and Gabbana and Armani seemed to get the
biggest rise out of those at hand, which came as no surprise since
familiar couture is always a crowd pleaser. The fashion show lasted
about forty-five minutes and gave the audience a sampling of
international designers from Chicago's twenty-five sister cities. And
it
proved that Chicago can certainly hold its own when speaking the
international language of fashion.
September 27, 2006: Designers of Chicago Fashion Show I was amped up for this show--after my recent romp through the city's
independent boutiques (see:Boutiqueville) I
was looking forward to seeing some local designers I've recently
come to know.
In the tent, a black-and-white image projected onto the wall featured
the local design dynamos from Macy's Design Shop. I ran into Cyndi
Chan
(designer of Ori'en) and asked her if she had any pre-show jitters:
"It's a lot of pressure--this is my first show--but once the models
are
walking down the runway, it's heaven," she said.
The runway featured womenswear from Lara Miller, Cyndi Chan, Doris
Ruth, Michelle Tan, Orlando Espinoza, Maria Pinto and Price Walton;
menswear was from Kent Nielsen. Several of the designers sat in the
front row, photographing their collections, and the audience was really
warm and supportive--there was lots of clapping and cheers, and the
whole thing felt like a city-family affair.
For me, part of the spectacle of a fashion show is watching the faces
of the audience members. This show was particularly fun for that
because
it was Chicagoans watching Chicagoans, if that makes any sense--we know
these designers personally, or if we don't, we've followed their
careers
so we feel like we do.
The featured designers evoked specific reactions from the crowd: when
Doris Ruth's ladies filed out in the "Nasty girl" wine velvet dress,
the
antique gold camisole with a vineyard tutu and the party princess skirt
in rainbow stripe, everyone seemed to smile, and my seatmate,
Melissa
Maynard, declared: "these clothes make me want to have fun." When
Orlando Espinoza's models floated down the runway in silver silk
dresses
with draped necklines and raglan sleeve jersey tops paired with
body-skimming pencil skirts, several audience members started talking
with their hands, making lines and curves in the air, to mimic the
impeccable tailoring of Orlando's collection. Orlando designs with
silhouettes that make a lady look like a lady.
The evening ended across the street, with a mojito-bar-laden
after-party at the China Grill. A lot of local designers made it over,
and I logged some bonding time with the "one-to-watch" bag designer
of
Joelle Nadine. September 28, 2006: Chicago Is...Red Hot!!! Back to Millennium Park for the Apparel Industry Board's Chicago
Is...Red Hot!!! This affair felt significantly more black-tie than the
rest, with a mature, decked-out crowd and the most lavish cocktail hour
of the week. The festivities began in a tent a few blocks east of
the
rooftop terrace, where a live jazz band played, candlelit tables
were
reserved for the likes of Richard Driehaus, and an elaborate buffet was
dotted by festive tomato trees.
At the fashion show, all the seats were individually assigned and the
front rows were dominated by society-page ladies and heavy-hitting
philanthropists. The runway show featured a diverse range of fashion:
accessories, men's, women's and children's clothing and bridal gowns
came from 50 local designers, 28 of whom are emerging talents. All
the
designers gathered on stage to greet the audience before a lengthy
defile, emceed by an energetic announcer, commenced. The show had an
upbeat, catchy soundtrack; it was fun to watch some of the city's
doyennes bounce along to Christina Aguilera's "Candyman."
Some of the highlights: The elegant jewelry of Susanne Siegel, the
fashiony leather bags of Joelle Nadine, and the couture bridal gowns by
Caroline DeVillo.
An after-party, held in the rooftop terrace's tent, was packed to the
gills (or flaps). September 29, 2006: Glamorama My first Glamorama. I was so excited for this fabled event that I
wanted to partake in every inch of it--from red carpet arrivals to
closing time at the after-party.
My evening started at the side of the Chicago Theater, where young
fans with camera phones clustered behind a row of journalists and
photographers. The E! Channel's Bobbie Thomas stood at the head of the
carpet, acting as commentator for the evening. Being a bit
Beyonce-shy
(I think they call it star-struck in some circles) I stood by a
reporter
friend on the red carpet and watched her question a procession of
personalities that ranged from Tommy the Krumping Clown to celebrity
stylist Phillip Bloch to Ms. Destiny's Child herself.
Inside the Chicago Theater, a well-heeled audience crowded into seats
and the show began. The theme of this year's fashion show, "a
multi-culti, global fusion of fashion and music" was reflected in a
whirlwind crossfire of Marc Jacobs, hip-hop clowns, salsa-fusion from
indie band Ozomatli, men's fashion from D&G and the launch of
Beyonce's
fashion line, House of Dereon. The show was a truly theatrical
production, with gigantic screens projecting images from around the
world, billowing fog and clapping thunder, men rolling out in giant
beach balls and a live performance of Beyonce's "Crazy in Love."
The fashion was all about unexpected combinations of fabrics and
silhouettes. Before the show, I was able to interview Melissa Ryan,
Glamorama stylist, and ask her about some trends to look out for on the
runway. This is how she summed up the season: "Black is back in a
big
way. Look for more sober, yet mysterious colors, like silvers,
gradations of grey, and of course, black. It's all about volume and
proportion. Balloon hems, bubble skirts, and the layering of different
lengths and textures in unexpected ways. And don't forget the skinny
pant! Layered under tunics or dresses, or paired with feminine blouses
with wide belts accentuating the waist, the skinny pant is a must-have
for fall. Evening is especially glamorous in rich jewel tones, while
white and soft metallics add a modern, sophisticated twist. Lastly, we
can't forget classic fall luxury, including cashmere, suede, menswear
patterns (plaid!) all in a wonderful, autumnal palette." (Read the
rest
of the interview with Melissa Ryanhere.)
Following the show, a shoulder-to-shoulder crowd of Chicagoans headed
to Macy's for the after-party, themed "Shanghai Chic." There was
something mysterious about being in a closed department store at
night--it's the kind of place movies and books are made of (well, at
least "Mannequin" and 'Corduroy,' but those count for something.)
The seventh floor of the department store was bustling with
fortune-telling geishas, trees dangling plastic goldfish, illuminated
fishbowls in the walls, pachinko machines and karaoke booths.
International food stations offered everything from fresh-baked
pretzels
to bubble tea.
An elevator ride to the top floor transported top-ticket holders to
the exclusive VIP party, where Beyonce and Michelle Williams mingled
with the crowd in a sleek black-and-white atmosphere and a seafood
buffet proffered bundles of shrimp and scallops.
Also by Jennifer Berg Dress Code: Multi-Culti
In Our Fashion
By Design
The Art of Fashion
Open for Business
By Design
By Design
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By Design
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