Jennifer Berg

The Narcissus room at Marshall Field's State Street became an impromptu bazaar of apparel and accessories by local artists on July 12. Macy's North buyers circled the room in teams of two, stopping to chat with designers and get the scoop on everything from Noon Solar's solar-powered handbags to Orlando Espinoza's sleek couture.

The designers invited to present to Macy's buyers (over sixty total) were handpicked by leaders of the local fashion scene. Select artists will be represented in Macy's Chicago Designer Shop, to be open on State Street September 8.

Participants were notified of the buyers' review a few weeks in advance; for many, the getting-ready process was brief: "I'd just returned from a materials buying trip to Paris, so all I had time to do was select some hats from my fall collection, print up a few sheets of info, and go!" says Eia Radosavljevic, milliner and Art Institute instructor. Jewelry designer Tracey Mayer took a somewhat more calculated approach, pulling out all the stops to ensure a gawk-worthy presentation: "I did a complete schematic on paper to be certain that my merchandise was attractive and had good flow to it," Mayer says. "I made sure each piece of jewelry was properly marked and polished."

So what was it like to come face-to-face with the power-wielding buyers? Not as intimidating as one might think: "It was a very casual atmosphere. The buyers would look at your product and ask questions about pricing, style and manufacturing capabilities. They were all nice and seemed genuinely excited to be there," says Kristen Amato, designer and founder of K. Amato designs. Aside from business-as-usual chitchat, the buyers took care to acquaint themselves with each artist: "I was impressed with how interested the buyers were in the concepts behind the line and the amount of time they spent; I never felt that we were rushed," says apparel designer and instructor Palesa Nicolini.

Though a roomful of artistes sets a prime stage for ego-clashing, the producers of "Project Runway" can keep their cameras on the East Coast, at least for now: "I was able to get to know my neighbor designers," Nicolini says. "Since we are all trying to figure it out in a city with little industry support, it was great to share resources and support one another. I traded a great fabric supplier for a possible manufacturing opportunity. In New York, that would have cost me my first born." (Jennifer Berg)

What would it mean to you to be picked up by Macy's?

"Fabulosity! The exposure that Macy's would offer our company is beyond what we could truly imagine." Erika and Monika Simmons of Double Stitch, www.doublestitchwear.com.

"Since my first job (in high school) was at Marshall Field's, it was particularly special to me that many of the buyers are or were employed by Marshall Field's." Joelle Minassian, bag designer, www.joellenadine.com.

"It would be a wonderful way for me to reach a new customer. Macy's not only attracts local shoppers, but many tourists as well." Lara Miller, clothing designer, www.laramiller.net.

"Working with Macy's takes you to that next level and also helps with brand recognition. It would be a great experience!" Kristen Amato, jewelry designer, www.k-amato.com.

"I am wildly curious about the reaction to my shoes from Macy's customers. My current customers are exceptionally creative, stand-out-from-the-crowd type of girls who are often into indie design and the DIY movement. I'd love to see that sense of fun and self-expression translate to Macy's customers." Annie Mohaupt, shoe designer, www.mohop.com.

"If my jewelry collection is picked up by Macy's, I would view it as a validation of the hard work and vision I bring to my craft. That is more important to me than any economic gain." Kathleen Miller, jewelry designer, www.kathleenjewelry.com.

"To be a part of the Chicago Designer Shop at Macy's would be excellent exposure for my label Mifflin and a new experience for me as I normally sell my work at smaller boutiques." Staci Leatherland, accessory designer, www.mifflinchicago.com.

"It would legitimize me as a neckwear designer to the rest of the fashion world. On a personal level, it would be the ultimate compliment of my designing work." Greg Shugar, necktie designer, www.TheTieBar.com.

"I don't normally do wholesale, but I wanted to participate because I really like that Macy's contacted us faculty at the School of the Art Institute. Since we'll be `neighbors' the more interaction between us the better." Eia Radosavljevic, milliner, www.EiaHatArt.com.

"I have been designing since 1983 so for me it is always about giving back the creative energy I was given. To just show up without expectation is how I approach it. To be around creative energy is nourishing." Richard Dayhoff, fashion designer.

"Being able to participate in an event with Marshall Field's/Macy's during this time of transition is really an exciting--and newsworthy--experience." Tammy Kohl, jewelry designer, www.treasurering.com.

"Naturally, the exposure would be fabulous. What makes it extra special is the commitment Macy's has made with the city to promote Chicago designers. I think my line would sell well in the flagship store and knowing there could be potential to expand into other Macy's stores is very energizing!" Tracey Mayer, jewelry designer, www.traceymayer.com.

"To be picked up by Macy's, in the manner that they are conducting this business, is an added bonus to the work I am already doing in my studio. I can't rely solely on this opportunity, but to participate would be an honor." Palesa Nicolini, apparel designer, www.palesanicolini.com.

(2006-07-18)

Also by Jennifer Berg

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Open for Business
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