Jenny B. Davis

The Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club defies easy descriptions--and that's what makes it so delicious.

Early evenings, the Boystown spot resembles a neighborhood bistro working an Old Hollywood theme. Black-and-white movies play on giant projection screens hanging from every wall, and gold-fringed red theater curtains frame the front windows. There's candlelight, there's canoodling.

Outdoors on the newly opened side patio, the dining scene is even more relaxed, with trees wrapped in twinkle lights, tinkling fountains and an entryway flanked by twin Buddha statues.

Then, bang: It happens. Inside the main dining room, a spotlight shines, the stereo volume shoots to eleven and a curtain parts to reveal the evening's featured Glamazon, a tour de force of rhinestones, pouty lips and sinuous hips. It's these female impersonators and their mini-shows--a two-song performance roughly every twenty minutes until close--that set the Kit Kat apart from other neighborhood restaurants, even in this neighborhood.

But it's not the only thing. The restaurant also boasts a menu of nearly ninety signature martinis, featuring standards like the sidecar along with frou-frou creations like the Samoan Girl Scout Cookie (vodka, Frangelico, creme de cocoa, butterscotch Schnapps and a dash of coconut cream) and an enormous, twenty-ounce blue cocktail called Diva's Paradise that's got a beachy bottom (Nerds candy), a green palm-shaped straw and a little white diver guy on the side.

There's also a full menu designed around that Old Hollywood theme: Appetizers are called "opening acts," entrees are "show stoppers" and desserts are, appropriately, the "grand finale." Selections are varied, ranging from steamed dumplings in wasabi wrappers to black peppercorn-crusted filet mignon and key lime pie, and all are well prepared and generously sized. Martinis average $8.50 each (half price on Wednesdays) and on Fridays, there's a summer prix fixe deal that includes three courses plus a martini for $30.

But back to those female impersonators.

"Everything is geared around the show," says co-owner Edward Gisiger, who looks a bit like a young Andy Garcia. "What we tried to accomplish with Kit Kat isn't just dinner--you can go and watch a show and have a great time." He likens the performances to a surge of energy that also serves as an alert that the evening will definitely be a "different type of experience."

And for Gisiger, this different experience has brought success. Kit Kat is still packing the house after seven years; while the restaurant does draw from the neighborhood, he estimates that up to seventy percent of guests on any given night are straight. Saturdays have also become popular nights for bachelorette parties, thanks to an unexpected mention in a major magazine, which acts as a draw among the straight-guy set.

An outpost in Puerto Vallarta that actually predates the Chicago location is still going strong. Although Gisiger just sold Kit Kat's third location, in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, he hasn't lost the itch to expand. In fact, he'd like to take the concept to Miami, Los Angeles, St. Louis, Las Vegas and beyond. Anywhere, really, that seems ready for this quirky, frothy, fabulous concoction.

Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club, 3700 North Halsted, 773-525-1111, kitkatchicago.com

SIDEBAR: Sandy Speaks

Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club performer Sandy Solis is stunning, even close up. Between numbers last Friday night, the Mexican-born performer took a moment to shares her thoughts on maintaining her image (hint: it's very expensive), honing her skills and dealing with overzealous fans.

How long have you been dancing?

When I was a boy, I studied Mexican folklore dances and competed in dance pageants. I compete in Miss Continental [female impersonation pageant]--it's a true pageant, with swimsuit, questions and talent--I danced Mexican-style. They had never seen anything me! I left dancing like that a long time ago, but I still have the same feelings. Now I like dancing to Shakira. She is my favorite because I can feel it--I can feel her dance, her walk, her music. Sometimes I make myself into Shakira. It's pretty easy.

Does it take a while to prepare for each performance?

It depends. If I am hurrying, I can do my makeup in about fifteen minutes; usually it takes thirty minutes. Then it depends on what I am wearing--it takes longer, you know, if I am wearing stockings. ... I also diet and exercise--a lot--and I have had surgeries. ... It's hard when I learn a new number. My first language is Spanish, so I have to learn the words first in English. I have to read the words so I know exactly how to move my mouth.

I'll bet you have a lot of dresses...

I have so many! Too, too many! When I came to Chicago from Acapulco, I had three gowns. But in Chicago, no one wants to watch you in the same gown. People are more critical here, and it's difficult because you have to spend a lot of money on costumes. Sometimes I design them and make them myself, but it takes a lot of time. When it's high pressure, like when I am competing, I get a professional to do it. But this is my job, to create a fantasy. The Sandy behind the doll is very different.

How do you deal with fans who may not understand that?

I have a lot of fans, gays, guys, girls, everyone ... sometimes people get close to me and they say, `Sandy, you're so amazing!,' and I am like, `Oh my God, I am just normal!' But sometimes someone will come to me and go to give me a tip and fondle me. They want to know if it's real. It bothers me sometimes, but it's my job. ... I am never going to stop doing this.

(2006-06-21)

Also by Jenny B. Davis

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Three Questions for Simonsig's Pieter Malan
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(2006-06-06)

Star Gazing
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Got Vice?
4pm, Saturday afternoon. You're still slumped on the couch, watching sucky Lifetime movies and reeking of smoke and gin. No problem, except your _________'s (insert best friend/mom/ex-fiancé/boss) wedding starts in three hours
(2005-11-15)

Taking It All Off
(2005-06-09)

Anarchy in the kitchen
(2002-10-30)

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