Brian Hieggelke

Tru may be the most exciting place to eat in Chicago, but its expense limits it to special occasions or trust-fund dips only. So when Lettuce Entertain You's Rich Melman teamed two ends of his culinary empire by matching Tru chef Rick Tramanto with former Maggiano's chef David Di Gregorio to open up a new place offering a degustation-inspired approach to everyday Italian fare--what Italians might call family-style dining--attention was paid, to say the least. For about $36, you are treated to a traditional three-course meal, featuring an array of antipasti, a primi course of pasta and risotto, and an entrée, which is the only item you choose. Dessert is a la carte. An innovative wine program--they call it "Just bring me wine"--matches tasting flights at two different price points ($15 or $28). Occupying the little changed former Papagus space, Osteria via Stato offers an understated interior, with dark woods accenting brick and other simple elegant details. Lunch is a terrific value--for $17.95, you get the antipasti course--which recently featured a fennel salad, a beet dish and a killer cheese-and-onion pastry--and a main course chosen from one of six pasta, seafood or meat dishes, along with a glass of wine. Short ribs in a Chianti reduction was succulent; the pennettini in a sage sauce was subtle with a flavor that rewarded the progress of eating it. Sides, served family-style, included cauliflower as well as a fried rosemary potato dish. And while those expecting the flavor orgies of Tru might be disappointed by the simplicity of this more rustic fare, be sure that Tramanto's on the case. We spotted him at lunch behind the bar, preparing antipasti, slicing prosciutto, likely for that evening's dinner. It's the subtle touches, like bringing complimentary bottled water-- "with or without bubbles"--that add up to a terrific experience, one that evokes the casual feast of everyday eating in Italy.

620 North State, (312)642-8450 (2005-03-01)

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