David Witter

Not long ago, the Chicago River was a continuous source of malicious mirth and sarcastic urban legend. While it has yet to become Fisherman's Wharf or Baltimore's Chesapeake Bay, Chicago restaurants have begun to exploit Chicago's rediscovered waterfront resource.

In no way is this more apparent than at Sorriso. Nestled under the Clark Street Bridge at 321 North Clark, Sorrisos' regular menu features cooking from regions such as Lombardy, Tuscany, Naples and Sicily. Owned by Johnny Blandino, former chef at the Palm steakhouse, Sorriso also offers a variety of daily specials that combine continents and cuisines.

These specials include Chilean sea bass. A nine-ounce steak lightly grilled and served on a bed of spinach and fresh basil, it is topped by a relish of red pepper, capers, olive oil and baby tomato. Light and flaky, yet meaty and flavorful, the dish is a perfect accompaniment to a warm summer's night. Also offered that particular evening were shrimp, mussels, scallops and other seafood served over pasta with a red sauce, and a braised veal shank. Stewed with leek, onion and carrots, it combines elements of Milanese and French provincial cuisine. However, this rich blend of meat and vegetables was served on a bed of angel hair pasta, where a thicker noodle or even potatoes might have been a better pairing. The regular menu includes traditional favorites like ravioli, lasagna, veal, calamari, and chicken and seafood dishes. Like the specials, they range from great to average, but the real star of the show at Sorriso is the vista.

A thin shank of a dining room that you have to enter via the bridge-tender stairs, Sorriso offers outdoor dining on a patio directly overlooking the river. During the day, the warm air blows across the cooler water, creating a localized river breeze. At night, the colors from the flashing red and blue bridge lights and the illumination from the surrounding buildings and passing motorboats create a tapestry of reflections on the gently moving river. For this reason, Sorriso is a can't miss for an intimate date or romantic evening. Dishes range from $10 to $25, and lower-priced lunch specials also make this a great spot on a sunny afternoon.

If you want a more casual look at the water, Slow Down, Life's Too Short, located at 1117 North Elston, offers food a step above traditional bar fare and a double-decked river-view dining area. On weekends, Slow Down offers live music, usually in the vein of Jimmy Buffet-inspired rock, reggae or dance bands playing to a mix of locals and tourists. The menu centers on bar food with a Cajun twist. Large platters of fried shrimp, scallops and catfish feature a variety of "homemade" Louisiana-style hot sauces that combine the flavors of pepper, garlic and other seasonings into one convenient (albeit a bit salty) blend. Other dishes include a surprisingly good barbecue pork sandwich, and the usual burgers, wings, etc. Most entrees are under ten dollars, and while weekends can be crowded and parking difficult, getting a great river view after work is no problem.

Other restaurants along the riverfront include the more downscale shrimp houses. The best of these is the Goose Island Shrimp House, located at 1013 West Division. Although Goose Island features massive shrimp, it offers only countertop eating, is not on an island and not that close to the river. Lawrence's Fisheries, at 2120 South Canal, offers a seated dining area that overlooks the South Branch of the Chicago River. Located just South of the Loop in what is still an industrial corridor, the view from Lawrence's offers diners a chance to look at the city's underbelly.

Sights include the nearby Amtrak rail yards, a building that was partially burned down during the filming of the movie "Backdraft," and warehouses storing Chinese noodles. The menu follows the tried and true formula of the Chicago-style shrimp house: fried shrimp, scallops, catfish dinner, fish and chips, clam strips, frog legs and ocean perch, all served with coleslaw and fries. Besides the view, this historic restaurant also displays a series of faded black-and-white photos taken during an era when, like Fisherman's Wharf or Chesapeake Bay, commercial fishing boats actually caught fish on Lake Michigan and traveled up the river to deliver their catch to nearby restaurants.

Those days are long gone, but at least we have a view.

Sorriso, 321 North Clark, (312)644-0283

Slow Down, Life's Too Short, 1177 North Elston, (773)384-1040

Goose Island Shrimp House, 1013 West Division, (312)642-3640

Lawrence's Fisheries, 2120 South Canal, (312)225-2113

(2004-05-12)

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