David Schneider

In recent years, Chicago has emerged as the epicenter of "nouveau Americáin" cuisine--a moniker of unfortunate pretentiousness for a culinary style of legitimate innovation, blending the subtlety of French sauciers with the robustness of American meats. Blackbird and mk were in the vanguard of this movement; now, chef Giuseppe Scurato, formerly of mk, makes his effort at Boka, occupying the coveted address formerly occupied by Don Juan on Halsted. It's a lovely and casually elegant environment, with rich wood, soft spot lighting, and a lounge-like nook inviting lingering conversations. The staff, however, tends to work against this atmosphere with a nervous and overly precious service--the mark of inexperience attempting to cater to four-star aspirations. Boka has constructed a menu of admirable variety, including all the great elements of nouveau Americana, from foie gras "au torchon," quail and duck to salmon, pork chops and lamb. My shredded-duck amuse bouche, quail appetizer and monkfish entrée were all solidly and heartily prepared, but without conspicuous artistry. Scurato apparently subscribes to an "essentialist" philosophy, letting the essence of the meat or fowl or fish speak for itself, and not diverting your attention toward gaudy or complex spicings. With entrées all hovering around the $20 range, though, it's a bit pricey for offerings which are, in the end, unchallenging. Still, you could do worse for a dine-to-impress date, before or after a performance at the Steppenwolf across the street. To that end, the silly gender-divided wine list will serve as a conversation starter.

1729 North Halsted, (312)337-6070. Sun-Wed 5-10:30pm, Thurs-Sat 5-11:30pm, bar open until 2am Sun-Wed, until 3am Thurs-Sat. $$/All major CCs.

(2004-02-11)

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