Kate Zambreno

My friend compared the experience of dining inside the minimalist interior of Rodan to being inside a Moby video. That metaphor works, since this new spot on Milwaukee Avenue tries a bit too hard to be a page out of Wallpaper, with its wood wall paneling, grey suede banquettes, and loungey house music setting the score for the distracting black-and-white video projections on a giant screen that looked like a student tribute to Leni Riefenstahl. Although the fusion of architectural elements is a little hard to digest, the cuisine is a tasty enough fusion of South American and Southeast Asian fare. My nicely portioned Peruvian steak was chopped up with peppers and came with a heaping of plantains, and my friend's grilled Pacific swordfish was equally savory. Not to mention that the wasabi fries appetizer and the tilapia tacos with mango salsa are building a reputation of their own. Later on, Rodan turns into a nightlife spot, and you can picture pretty people hanging out at the bar watching each other and the weird video art. But if you want to engage in some personal voyeurism you have to head to the bathroom. It's almost worth the trip alone just to check out the video mirrors that look like you're staring at the MTV version of your former self.

1530 North Milwaukee, (773)276-7036, Sun-Fri 5pm-2am, Sat 5pm-3am, $$/all major CCs.

(2003-10-16)

Also by Kate Zambreno

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Tip of the Week
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New Bar
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Tip of the Week
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Skate on State
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In Heat
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Tip of the Week
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Hijacking hijinks
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