|
|
chicago home
events calendar
bars & clubs restaurants specials best of chicago 
art
film and video food and drink music and clubs stage style words sports features |
|
|
 
Young Turks Chicago dining makes an Istanbul run
Like a blast from a giant hookah pipe, Turkish food, led by the mini
cult craze of Shwarma, is threading its way into the tapestry of
mainstream Chicago dining.
Four Turkish restaurants have opened up along a short stretch of
Lincoln Avenue in the Lincoln Park and Ravenswood areas, some in recent
months. Cafe Demir, A La Turka, Anatolian Kabob and a new version of the
old favorite, Cousin's Turkish Dining, offer diners exciting
Turkish-style cuisine, as well as their take on traditional Middle
Eastern fare.
Historically, Turkey has long been the political and cultural
intersection between the Christian and European cultures of
Mediterranean Southeastern Europe, and the largely Muslim world of the
Middle East. So it is no surprise that Turkish cuisine is a blend of
spices and ingredients from both regions. Foods like baba ganuj, falafel
and kebabs served with basmati rice and couscous still form the heart of
most of the menus at these establishments. Most of them are fair, but
the same or better can be had at any of the Middle Eastern restaurants
throughout Andersonville and the North Side.
Besides the hookahs and the strong teas, it is the guveches, mujvers
and boreks that bring diners out of their gastronomic SUVs and onto the
magic carpet. Cafe Demir is the smallest of the restaurants, but it
offers perhaps the most diverse menu. Traditional Turkish appetizers
like dolmas (stuffed grape leaves) and borek (small phyllo pies) are the
first examples of this trend. The dolmas resemble the Grecian dolmatas,
but substitute the rich flavors of pine nuts, currants and parsley for
ground beef. Boreks also bear a likeness to spinach and cheese pies, but
the Turks prefer them deep-fried with onion and garlic. The highlight of
the entrées features a series of traditional Turkish dishes that cater
to the vegetarian diner. The guveche mantiari combines the flavors of
mushrooms, potatoes, onions, green beans, tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant,
green onion and other seasonings into a tasty tomato-based stew. Kagit
kebabi tavuk takes a similar mix of vegetables, but adds chicken. Baked
in rice paper, it is a slice of haute cuisine for less than ten dollars.
Formerly a fixture in the Andersonville area while still present in
North Wrigleyville, Cousin's has now reappeared in West Ravenswood.
Opened by one of the original partners, the restaurant excels in items
that combine Turkish inspiration and seasonings with more traditional
American ingredients. Dishes like firanda alabalik, or rainbow trout
baked with kasseri cheese and greens, saffron-dusted tiger shrimp with
garlic roasted potatoes, and sesame crusted filet of salmon served over
a bed of couscous, demonstrate this fruitful cohabitation.
Cousin's also specializes in foods that bring the hearty traditions
of Southeastern Europe into the Turkish palate. Mujver, a Turkish
version of the potato pancake, has traditionally been the restaurant's
signature dish. Using zucchinis as the main ingredient, they are
combined with dill, parsley, egg and flour, lightly fried and served
with a yogurt sauce. The dolmas bear a strong resemblance to the
Polish/Romanian stuffed cabbage or "pigs in a blanket." But instead of
being served with ground beef and covered with gravy that resembles
motor oil, they are lightly steamed and filled with wild basmati rice
and vegetables.
A La Turka also serves Middle Eastern fare like kebabs, humus, and
many of the Turkish favorites like mujver, lahmacun (Turkish-style
pizza) and cross-cultural combinations like Turkish ravioli. But the
strong point of A La Turka is its décor. While Cafe Demir and Cousin's
offer your basic storefront restaurant with Turkish touches, A La Turka
brings out all the bells and whistles of the Ottoman Empire. Diners are
seated on giant cushions arranged on the floor and decorated like Elvis
Presley's sequined jumpsuits. Hookahs, those wild, bong-like pipes with
glittery hoses going in all directions, are placed on each table and
available for use. Music featuring wild chanting and instruments
unfamiliar to the Western ear bounces off walls covered with ornate
tapestries.
Named after the Turkish state known for its cuisine, Anatolian Kabob
does not completely live up to its namesake. Located in the heart of
Lincoln Square across the street from the Davis Theatre, the environment
is European and quaint. But the restaurant does not always have many of
the inexpensive Turkish-inspired items that are listed on the menu.
Instead, diners may have to settle for pricey falafels and doner kebab.
This latter dish takes you into the trendy section of the menu. Called
doner kebab in Turkish restaurants and shwarma in Middle Eastern
establishments, it is a blend of ground lamb and beef marinated in
seasonings. Roasted on a vertical skewer, then--if made properly--pulled
apart like pulled pork and char grilled, it is a tastier, less fattening
version of gyros. Anatolian's version was tasty, if a bit salty.
Although it is the doner kebab that might bring the casual diner in
the door of many Turkish establishments, the vegetarian-inspired
guveches and other signature dishes make the visit especially rewarding.
Combining the flavors of Mediterranean Europe and the Middle East,
Turkish cuisine cuts through the taste buds like a pesh kabz, the long,
curved Turkish blades that decorate the walls of many of the
restaurants. The Cafe Demir, 2964 North Lincoln, (773) 755-6721
A La Turka, 3134 North Lincoln, (773) 935-6101
Anatolian Kabob, 4609 North Lincoln, (773) 561-2200
Cousin's, 3038 West Irving Park, (773) 478-6868
Also by David Witter BAR NONE
BRAIN MATTERS
|
|
about Newcitychicago | about Newcity magazine | advertising | privacy policy | FAQ | employment |
