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![]() RESTAURANT REVIEW Maiz
Maiz (pronounced my-aze) has carved out an interesting niche for itself -- pre-Hispanic Mexican food -- though it's not yet properly explored. The menu consists of six tortilla choices, all of them based on the Aztec staple of maize, from familiar tacos and quesadillas to the more-exotic-than-Taco-Bell huarache; it's up to you to choose delectables to pile on top, such as cactus, chorizo or, a particular standout, huitlacoche;, a dark and delicious mushroom that grows only on corn and is not unlike truffles in its deep, earthy flavor. Another real treat is atoles, a corn porridge served in a mug and spiked with a different flavor each night -- mine was chocolate, and I enjoyed the particular satisfaction that comes with slurping something sweet but knowing it's still good for you. Not everything on the menu pleases, as I found the sopes with spinach a little lacking in gusto. Maiz might be onto something, but right now it's missing the surprise and verve element that could transport corn from Aztec staple to modern-day delight. 1942 W. Division, (773)862-1801. Daily 5-10pm. BYOB. $/No CCs.
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