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RESTAURANT REVIEW
Maiz

Margaret Wappler

Maiz (pronounced my-aze) has carved out an interesting niche for itself -- pre-Hispanic Mexican food -- though it's not yet properly explored. The menu consists of six tortilla choices, all of them based on the Aztec staple of maize, from familiar tacos and quesadillas to the more-exotic-than-Taco-Bell huarache; it's up to you to choose delectables to pile on top, such as cactus, chorizo or, a particular standout, huitlacoche;, a dark and delicious mushroom that grows only on corn and is not unlike truffles in its deep, earthy flavor. Another real treat is atoles, a corn porridge served in a mug and spiked with a different flavor each night -- mine was chocolate, and I enjoyed the particular satisfaction that comes with slurping something sweet but knowing it's still good for you. Not everything on the menu pleases, as I found the sopes with spinach a little lacking in gusto. Maiz might be onto something, but right now it's missing the surprise and verve element that could transport corn from Aztec staple to modern-day delight.

1942 W. Division, (773)862-1801. Daily 5-10pm. BYOB. $/No CCs. (2000-03-30)




Also by Margaret Wappler

Flash 'em
Flash fiction. Sudden fiction. Briefs. Prose poems. Vignettes. Several monikers later, the genre that eludes definition has been pinned down to the following scant set of guidelines by literary pundits: Short-shorts should be 250-2,000 words, and if it doesn't grab you within fifty words, there's not much point in reading further.
(2000-03-02)

Toy stories
To my surprise, the party is made up of a range of ages, from women in their mid-20s, to older ladies who look to be touching on 60. Laura notes later that this is nothing unusual. With a smile, she says, "No one wants to believe this, but I sell sex toys to your mom."
(2000-03-02)

Flash 'em
Flash fiction. Sudden fiction. Briefs. Prose poems. Vignettes. Several monikers later, the genre that eludes definition has been pinned down to the following scant set of guidelines by literary pundits: Short-shorts should be 250-2,000 words, and if it doesn't grab you within fifty words, there's not much point in reading further.
(2000-03-02)

Toy stories
To my surprise, the party is made up of a range of ages, from women in their mid-20s, to older ladies who look to be touching on 60. Laura notes later that this is nothing unusual. With a smile, she says, "No one wants to believe this, but I sell sex toys to your mom."
(2000-03-02)






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